In today’s post I feel like I should be saying “Move along, nothing to see”, as the police might do at the scene of an accident. The reason I say this is because whilst we are supremely busy in the bodega, the jobs that we are doing don’t really lend themselves to very interesting photographs. At the moment we are systematically adding bentonite to the tanks, which involves some re-hydration (bentonite comes in sacks of dull, grey, dry granules), and then adding this to the tanks and mixing it for an hour or two. It would make a very boring video, just a shot of pumps and hoses spread around the floor, thereby leaving me scratching my head wondering what picture I could use to illustrate today’s task. In the end I have opted for something completely different.

Yesterday night there was a lot of interest in the supermoon or blood moon, which, owing to the vagaries of the Galician weather, I didn’t see. Apparently the skies were clear, but regrettably on the Ria where I live, we were shrouded in thick fog…. typical! Indeed, my only glimpse of said ‘supermoon’ occurred when I arrived at the bodega early this morning (see photo) – what a disappointment, I guess I’ll have to wait another generation to get a better view!In today’s post I feel like I should be saying “Move along, nothing to see”, as the police might do at the scene of an accident. The reason I say this is because whilst we are supremely busy in the bodega, the jobs that we are doing don’t really lend themselves to very interesting photographs. At the moment we are systematically adding bentonite to the tanks, which involves some re-hydration (bentonite comes in sacks of dull, grey, dry granules), and then adding this to the tanks and mixing it for an hour or two. It would make a very boring video, just a shot of pumps and hoses spread around the floor, thereby leaving me scratching my head wondering what picture I could use to illustrate today’s task. In the end I have opted for something completely different.

Yesterday night there was a lot of interest in the supermoon or blood moon, which, owing to the vagaries of the Galician weather, I didn’t see. Apparently the skies were clear, but regrettably on the Ria where I live, we were shrouded in thick fog…. typical! Indeed, my only glimpse of said ‘supermoon’ occurred when I arrived at the bodega early this morning (see photo) – what a disappointment, I guess I’ll have to wait another generation to get a better view!

I am not quite sure why, but now that the actual picking is finished, we seem to be working harder than ever. OK, the hours are not quite as long, as we can accomplish most of what we need to do within ‘normal’ opening hours, but the physical demands are quite exhausting. We seem to spend most of our day on the staircase between the lower and mid levels of the bodega – in other words, between the top of the tanks and the bottom of the tanks. And then there is the seemingly back breaking job of seeding the tanks. I say back breaking because of the system that we use for preparing the yeast – all done very carefully by hand. We use large 300 litre containers, firstly to re-hydrate the yeast, and subsequently to add grape must to the mixture to slowly lower the temperature, until it is cool enough to add back to the tank. For example, the yeast is re-hydrated at body temperature, around 38°C, whilst the temperature of the must at this time is nearer to 15°C. If we simply poured the warm yeast mixture into the cold must, then the shock alone would probably kill most of the yeast and render it useless. That’s why we have to reduce the temperature of the yeast mixture in a very slow, controlled fashion, and all the time bending over what is essentially, a big bucket!

As I mentioned in a previous post, owing to the two breaks that we had during the picking, this year’s cellar ‘routine’ will also be disrupted. Usually there is pretty much a natural ‘flow’ as our attention moves from one tank to the next, but this year it is already much more disjointed, and obviously will be spread over a longer period. Today we have just finished the last of the seeding, and will shortly start on adding Bentonite for protein stabilisation and to clarify the wine (although technically it not wine as yet). As you can see from today’s photo, Angela is quite partial to tasting the yeast, although her stomach is not quite as keen!I am not quite sure why, but now that the actual picking is finished, we seem to be working harder than ever. OK, the hours are not quite as long, as we can accomplish most of what we need to do within ‘normal’ opening hours, but the physical demands are quite exhausting. We seem to spend most of our day on the staircase between the lower and mid levels of the bodega – in other words, between the top of the tanks and the bottom of the tanks. And then there is the seemingly back breaking job of seeding the tanks. I say back breaking because of the system that we use for preparing the yeast – all done very carefully by hand. We use large 300 litre containers, firstly to re-hydrate the yeast, and subsequently to add grape must to the mixture to slowly lower the temperature, until it is cool enough to add back to the tank. For example, the yeast is re-hydrated at body temperature, around 38°C, whilst the temperature of the must at this time is nearer to 15°C. If we simply poured the warm yeast mixture into the cold must, then the shock alone would probably kill most of the yeast and render it useless. That’s why we have to reduce the temperature of the yeast mixture in a very slow, controlled fashion, and all the time bending over what is essentially, a big bucket!

As I mentioned in a previous post, owing to the two breaks that we had during the picking, this year’s cellar ‘routine’ will also be disrupted. Usually there is pretty much a natural ‘flow’ as our attention moves from one tank to the next, but this year it is already much more disjointed, and obviously will be spread over a longer period. Today we have just finished the last of the seeding, and will shortly start on adding Bentonite for protein stabilisation and to clarify the wine (although technically it not wine as yet). As you can see from today’s photo, Angela is quite partial to tasting the yeast, although her stomach is not quite as keen!

Under normal circumstances our harvest would be divided into two distinct and separate phases – out in the vineyards collecting the fruit, and then moving inside to convert our fruit into delicious albariño. This year however, has been a little different, mainly thanks to our fleeting brush with hurricane Henri.

Whilst we picked for only five days, the time lapse between our first day and the last actually extended to a period of nine days, with two breaks in between. The result being that the first grape must was ready for fermentation even before the last grapes had entered our door. I guess that, depending on the size of the property, or perhaps the number of different grape varieties involved, this might be common practice for many bodegas, but in the case of Castro Martin there is usually very little, or no overlap between the two different phases. Often it is more or less like a cascade effect, meaning that once we start seeding our first tanks we continue, without a break, until the last one is completed. This year our ‘cascade’ will not be quite as regular – more of a stop, start affair.

In my opinion winemaking is by far the most interesting part of the year – we have our raw material that will ultimately determine the quality, but our winemaking will certainly dictate the style of albariño that we make. I liken it to cooking, when the chef shows his skill and creativity using the ‘ingredients’ that nature has provided, making a ‘dish’ using his or her own interpretation. Thankfully, not all albariños taste the same!Under normal circumstances our harvest would be divided into two distinct and separate phases – out in the vineyards collecting the fruit, and then moving inside to convert our fruit into delicious albariño. This year however, has been a little different, mainly thanks to our fleeting brush with hurricane Henri.

Whilst we picked for only five days, the time lapse between our first day and the last actually extended to a period of nine days, with two breaks in between. The result being that the first grape must was ready for fermentation even before the last grapes had entered our door. I guess that, depending on the size of the property, or perhaps the number of different grape varieties involved, this might be common practice for many bodegas, but in the case of Castro Martin there is usually very little, or no overlap between the two different phases. Often it is more or less like a cascade effect, meaning that once we start seeding our first tanks we continue, without a break, until the last one is completed. This year our ‘cascade’ will not be quite as regular – more of a stop, start affair.

In my opinion winemaking is by far the most interesting part of the year – we have our raw material that will ultimately determine the quality, but our winemaking will certainly dictate the style of albariño that we make. I liken it to cooking, when the chef shows his skill and creativity using the ‘ingredients’ that nature has provided, making a ‘dish’ using his or her own interpretation. Thankfully, not all albariños taste the same!

Friday 18th September – First thing this morning it felt like autumn had arrived. A beautiful clear blue sky, mist hanging over the valley (as in yesterday’s photo), and only 10°C or 50°F. Good conditions for mopping up our last few thousand kilos.

When the first grapes entered at the end of the morning, it quickly became apparent that the quality was not the same as those we had already collected. In our first pressing the grape must was much thinner and just not as rich as the first four days (just as well that we had gathered nearly all of our fruit in the four days prior to the rain). Of course we do compensate for this slight dilution in the cellar, by using a much, much shorter and more gentle pressing cycle – not quite ‘first run’ juice, but pretty close to this. Also, as I mentioned in one of my previous posts, there is no way that this juice will be blended with the rest of our crop.

The really incredible fact is that the vast majority of other bodegas decided to wait, and had not gathered one single grape before the storm. I believe that our Consello revealed that only 10% of the denominations wine had been gathered in, and I cannot, for the life of me, understand why. Whilst it is true that our alcohol might be a bit lower this year (probably just under 12%), at least our own wine should have a good concentration and balance – in my book far better than a thin, acidic albariño.

By early evening the final grapes were in, and very soon loaded into the presses. The curtain had finally fallen on yet another vintage – a healthy volume taken in record time. I have to say that at Castro Martin we are extremely happy with the fruits of our labour this year (every pun intended), but buyer beware, it will certainly be a vintage of two halves – those who picked before the rain, and those who picked after.Friday 18th September – First thing this morning it felt like autumn had arrived. A beautiful clear blue sky, mist hanging over the valley (as in yesterday’s photo), and only 10°C or 50°F. Good conditions for mopping up our last few thousand kilos.

When the first grapes entered at the end of the morning, it quickly became apparent that the quality was not the same as those we had already collected. In our first pressing the grape must was much thinner and just not as rich as the first four days (just as well that we had gathered nearly all of our fruit in the four days prior to the rain). Of course we do compensate for this slight dilution in the cellar, by using a much, much shorter and more gentle pressing cycle – not quite ‘first run’ juice, but pretty close to this. Also, as I mentioned in one of my previous posts, there is no way that this juice will be blended with the rest of our crop.

The really incredible fact is that the vast majority of other bodegas decided to wait, and had not gathered one single grape before the storm. I believe that our Consello revealed that only 10% of the denominations wine had been gathered in, and I cannot, for the life of me, understand why. Whilst it is true that our alcohol might be a bit lower this year (probably just under 12%), at least our own wine should have a good concentration and balance – in my book far better than a thin, acidic albariño.

By early evening the final grapes were in, and very soon loaded into the presses. The curtain had finally fallen on yet another vintage – a healthy volume taken in record time. I have to say that at Castro Martin we are extremely happy with the fruits of our labour this year (every pun intended), but buyer beware, it will certainly be a vintage of two halves – those who picked before the rain, and those who picked after.

Thursday 17th September – Despite a cool, bright, sunny morning (only 12°C or 54°F), we decided to sit it out for another 24 hours. Our grapes were very healthy before the recent rain, and so we will make one final push tomorrow, thus avoiding the danger of rot having the time to take hold. The forecast for Friday is good, and so we have our fingers crossed that on this occasion the prediction might be accurate! Of course we will almost certainly have to handle the last few thousand kilos of grapes differently to the fruit picked before the rain, as there is no doubt that the must will be slightly dilute. Indeed, these few grapes will be separated completely from the rest of the harvest, and we will wait to see how they turn out once they have been converted into finished wine.

Meanwhile, inside the wine cellar, we have now started the first of our fermentations, seeding the first tanks during the morning. Clearly, with all the breaks we have had so far this year, there is no doubt that the period of seeding and fermentation is going to be more protracted than usual, the only compensation being that we started to pick a little earlier than in many previous vintages.

Today’s picture shows the Salnes Valley at about 9am this morning, with the mist still hanging in the air above the vineyards.Thursday 17th September – Despite a cool, bright, sunny morning (only 12°C or 54°F), we decided to sit it out for another 24 hours. Our grapes were very healthy before the recent rain, and so we will make one final push tomorrow, thus avoiding the danger of rot having the time to take hold. The forecast for Friday is good, and so we have our fingers crossed that on this occasion the prediction might be accurate! Of course we will almost certainly have to handle the last few thousand kilos of grapes differently to the fruit picked before the rain, as there is no doubt that the must will be slightly dilute. Indeed, these few grapes will be separated completely from the rest of the harvest, and we will wait to see how they turn out once they have been converted into finished wine.

Meanwhile, inside the wine cellar, we have now started the first of our fermentations, seeding the first tanks during the morning. Clearly, with all the breaks we have had so far this year, there is no doubt that the period of seeding and fermentation is going to be more protracted than usual, the only compensation being that we started to pick a little earlier than in many previous vintages.

Today’s picture shows the Salnes Valley at about 9am this morning, with the mist still hanging in the air above the vineyards.

Wednesday 16th September – As we opened our shutters on Wednesday morning we were still in the grip of Henri, torrential rain driven by the wind. However, as the morning progressed the rain stopped and the skies started to clear – the storm was at an end a little sooner than predicted. Originally we had expected the rain to continue for two full days, but as you know, our forecasts are often wrong! Our weather, including storm forecasting, remains unpredictable. The rest of the day was not entirely dry with showers in the late afternoon and early evening.

Meanwhile in the bodega we were busy racking more tanks after settling, and preparing one or two tanks ready to launch the fermentations. Even without grapes coming in there is always plenty to do at this time of year, and we will be working seven days a week, probably for the next month until the very last fermentation is complete.Wednesday 16th September – As we opened our shutters on Wednesday morning we were still in the grip of Henri, torrential rain driven by the wind. However, as the morning progressed the rain stopped and the skies started to clear – the storm was at an end a little sooner than predicted. Originally we had expected the rain to continue for two full days, but as you know, our forecasts are often wrong! Our weather, including storm forecasting, remains unpredictable. The rest of the day was not entirely dry with showers in the late afternoon and early evening.

Meanwhile in the bodega we were busy racking more tanks after settling, and preparing one or two tanks ready to launch the fermentations. Even without grapes coming in there is always plenty to do at this time of year, and we will be working seven days a week, probably for the next month until the very last fermentation is complete.

Tuesday 15th September – For almost a week now we have been worrying about the imminent arrival of Hurricane Henri, or rather his tail end. Amber weather alerts have been issued, and, as it transpires, they have been justified. High winds and rain have been lashing Galicia, and consequently our 2015 harvest is suspended. The excellent news is that over 90% of our grapes are already safely gathered!

The day however, was not without one significant drama. Our tank refrigeration system suddenly kicked out, and would not re-start. A quick call to our electricians revealed that it was actually one of the three external ventilators that had stopped working (possibly owing to rain from the storm entering the circuit). The good news is that the cold machine can comfortably work with two ventilators, and so we have simply by-passed one until the weather subsides and it can be repaired. Panic over.Tuesday 15th September – For almost a week now we have been worrying about the imminent arrival of Hurricane Henri, or rather his tail end. Amber weather alerts have been issued, and, as it transpires, they have been justified. High winds and rain have been lashing Galicia, and consequently our 2015 harvest is suspended. The excellent news is that over 90% of our grapes are already safely gathered!

The day however, was not without one significant drama. Our tank refrigeration system suddenly kicked out, and would not re-start. A quick call to our electricians revealed that it was actually one of the three external ventilators that had stopped working (possibly owing to rain from the storm entering the circuit). The good news is that the cold machine can comfortably work with two ventilators, and so we have simply by-passed one until the weather subsides and it can be repaired. Panic over.

Monday 14th September – The day started more or less exactly as it did yesterday with one slight difference, it had been raining during the night, but by the time we arrived at the bodega it had stopped. Within an hour or two, the vineyards had dried out, and by about 11am we were actually bathed in warm sunshine. It was time to pick as quickly as possible, not only to collect fruit whilst it was still completely healthy, but also because of the looming storm forecast for Tuesday – the tail end of Hurricane Henri approaching from the Atlantic.

On our part, every man and his dog was sent to the ‘Pazo’ vineyard in an attempt to gather all the best fruit whilst it remained dry. By late afternoon the grape reception was filling up, and there was an visible sense of relief on the faces of many a grape suppliers as they recognised that had safely gathered their crop before the inclement weather arrived. It turned out to be yet another day of high volumes passing through our presses, not quite a record day, but certainly much higher than the average of recent years. Our bodega and picking teams were working like heros!

Unfortunately, one of the unplanned consequences of this high volume was that our distillery simply could not keep up with the pace. When our presses are emptied the pomace or ‘bagazo’ as it is called here (grape seeds, skins and stems), are sent down a shoot to the floor below, and collected in large containers ready to be sent to the distillery. During the harvest they run a shuttle of lorries, on a daily basis, collecting the full, and delivering empties ready to be refilled. With the higher than normal daily volumes that we were generating, they eventually fell behind, and consequently we eventually ran out of containers. There was no option, but to create a ‘bagazo’ mountain on the floor, inside the bodega (see today’s photo).

The amazing fact was, that by the end of this fourth day, our 2015 harvest was almost complete! Now we can only wait, and see what transpires over the coming days, but if the forecasts are correct, then we will almost certainly not be picking for the next two or three days.Monday 14th September – The day started more or less exactly as it did yesterday with one slight difference, it had been raining during the night, but by the time we arrived at the bodega it had stopped. Within an hour or two, the vineyards had dried out, and by about 11am we were actually bathed in warm sunshine. It was time to pick as quickly as possible, not only to collect fruit whilst it was still completely healthy, but also because of the looming storm forecast for Tuesday – the tail end of Hurricane Henri approaching from the Atlantic.

On our part, every man and his dog was sent to the ‘Pazo’ vineyard in an attempt to gather all the best fruit whilst it remained dry. By late afternoon the grape reception was filling up, and there was an visible sense of relief on the faces of many a grape suppliers as they recognised that they had safely gathered their crop before the inclement weather arrived. It turned out to be yet another day of high volumes passing through our presses, not quite a record day, but certainly much higher than the average of recent years. Our bodega and picking teams were working like heros!

Unfortunately, one of the unplanned consequences of this high volume was that our distillery simply could not keep up with the pace. When our presses are emptied the pomace or ‘bagazo’ as it is called here (grape seeds, skins and stems), are sent down a shoot to the floor below, and collected in large containers ready to be sent to the distillery. During the harvest they run a shuttle of lorries, on a daily basis, collecting the full, and delivering empties ready to be refilled. With the higher than normal daily volumes that we were generating, they eventually fell behind, and consequently we eventually ran out of containers. There was no option, but to create a ‘bagazo’ mountain on the floor, inside the bodega (see today’s photo).

The amazing fact was, that by the end of this fourth day, our 2015 harvest was almost complete! Now we can only wait, and see what transpires over the coming days, but if the forecasts are correct, then we will almost certainly not be picking for the next two or three days.

Sunday 13th September – We woke up this morning to steady rain, and the prognosis did not look good. By the time we actually reached the bodega the rain had stopped, and then it became one of those horrible ‘judgement calls’. Do we start the ball rolling, and go for it, or should we err on the side of caution and lose a day of picking (knowing that there is very probably worse to come in a couple of days – the storm that I mentioned yesterday)? In the end we decided to opt out, rack a few tanks of grape must (after a period of settling), and then go home for a nice Sunday lunch!

With hindsight this was actually the wrong call, as, apart from one brief shower during the afternoon, it remained dry throughout the day. Oh, the joys of Galician weather!Sunday 13th September – We woke up this morning to steady rain, and the prognosis did not look good. By the time we actually reached the bodega the rain had stopped, and then it became one of those horrible ‘judgement calls’. Do we start the ball rolling, and go for it, or should we err on the side of caution and lose a day of picking (knowing that there is very probably worse to come in a couple of days – the storm that I mentioned yesterday)? In the end we decided to opt out, rack a few tanks of grape must (after a period of settling), and then go home for a nice Sunday lunch!

With hindsight this was actually the wrong call, as, apart from one brief shower during the afternoon, it remained dry throughout the day. Oh, the joys of Galician weather!

Saturday 12th September – All the original weather predictions for Saturday were for rain, but owing to the unpredictability of our weather we decided to set up for picking anyway – and just as well we did. It wasn’t perhaps the sunniest of days, albeit that there were odd glimpses, but the most important thing is that it remained dry. Having completed our Castrelo and Cunchidos vineyards in the first two days, we moved on to our home vineyard, surrounding the bodega. Planted more than ten years ago, and benefiting from a southwesterly aspect, the fruit we gather from this site improves with every year that passes.

Of course the big advantage of harvesting on ‘home soil’ is quite simply the proximity – the fruit is in the bodega within a matter of minutes, and into the presses quite soon after that. As I have said in the past, we work hard on our logistics during the picking – once the bunches have been clipped from the vines, then we do everything humanly possible to speed them through the presses, converting them into grape must and getting this into our tanks. Heat and fruit oxidation are always our biggest enemies in white wine production.

After two record breaking days the pace slowed just a little, still harvesting a good quantity, but slightly more relaxed after two quite frenetic days. Our motivation throughout this period was (as it very often is at this time of year), the weather forecast. With more rain forecast for Sunday, and the tail end of a hurricane arriving on Tuesday, we prefer to gather our fruit now, whilst still healthy and before it gets a good soaking.Saturday 12th September – All the original weather predictions for Saturday were for rain, but owing to the unpredictability of our weather we decided to set up for picking anyway – and just as well we did. It wasn’t perhaps the sunniest of days, albeit that there were odd glimpses, but the most important thing is that it remained dry. Having completed our Castrelo and Cunchidos vineyards in the first two days, we moved on to our home vineyard, surrounding the bodega. Planted more than ten years ago, and benefiting from a southwesterly aspect, the fruit we gather from this site improves with every year that passes.

Of course the big advantage of harvesting on ‘home soil’ is quite simply the proximity – the fruit is in the bodega within a matter of minutes, and into the presses quite soon after that. As I have said in the past, we work hard on our logistics during the picking – once the bunches have been clipped from the vines, then we do everything humanly possible to speed them through the presses, converting them into grape must and getting this into our tanks. Heat and fruit oxidation are always our biggest enemies in white wine production.

After two record breaking days the pace slowed just a little, still harvesting a good quantity, but slightly more relaxed after two quite frenetic days. Our motivation throughout this period was (as it very often is at this time of year), the weather forecast. With more rain forecast for Sunday, and the tail end of a hurricane arriving on Tuesday, we prefer to gather our fruit now, whilst still healthy and before it gets a good soaking.