Bulli for you…. wine that is

December 1st, 2012 | National News

Despite being sold at many a top restaurant around the world, to be very honest I don’t think that our wines have ever appeared on the list at Spain’s famous El Bulli – and of course, now that it is closed, they never will. Our only rather tenuous connection is that their sommelier, Ferran Centelles, was a judge in last August’s Decanter tasting of Albariño, selecting Castro Martin as one of the very best, awarding us a fantastic 95/100 and classifying the wine as “outstanding”. Perhaps if the restaurant had remained open we might have been in with a chance of being added to the list….. we will never know.

El Bulli, the three star award-winning restaurant, headed for 27 years by the celebrated chef Ferran Adria, have now decided to auction the remnants of their extensive wine collection in two sales early next year. Sotherby’s will oversee the sale of some 8,800 bottles to be held in Hong Kong and New York during April of 2013.

Among the highlights of the sales will be 2,000 bottles of Spanish wine, including several vintages of Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ (but regrettably no Castro Martin). There will also be full cases of Chateau Latour 2005 and three bottles of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti 1990, which have a pre-sale estimate of $32,500 to $47,500. I suspect that these might be targeted at selected wealthy Chinese businessmen who will snap them up perhaps without really appreciating the true value of what they have bought. Whatever amount they pay, and however they decided to consume the wines (not as spritzers as has been rumoured in the past), the proceeds will at least go to a good cause – the financing of Sr. Ferran’s El Bulli Foundation which will eventually replace the restaurant, opening in 2014.

Despite being sold at many a top restaurant around the world, to be very honest I don’t think that our wines have ever appeared on the list at Spain’s famous El Bulli – and of course, now that it is closed, they never will. Our only rather tenuous connection is that their sommelier, Ferran Centelles, was a judge in last August’s Decanter tasting of Albariño, selecting Castro Martin as one of the very best, awarding us a fantastic 95/100 and classifying the wine as “outstanding”. Perhaps if the restaurant had remained open we might have been in with a chance of being added to the list….. we will never know.

El Bulli, the three star award-winning restaurant, headed for 27 years by the celebrated chef Ferran Adria, have now decided to auction the remnants of their extensive wine collection in two sales early next year. Sotherby’s will oversee the sale of some 8,800 bottles to be held in Hong Kong and New York during April of 2013.

Among the highlights of the sales will be 2,000 bottles of Spanish wine, including several vintages of Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ (but regrettably no Castro Martin). There will also be full cases of Chateau Latour 2005 and three bottles of Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Romanee Conti 1990, which have a pre-sale estimate of $32,500 to $47,500. I suspect that these might be targeted at selected wealthy Chinese businessmen who will snap them up perhaps without really appreciating the true value of what they have bought. Whatever amount they pay, and however they decided to consume the wines (not as spritzers as has been rumoured in the past), the proceeds will at least go to a good cause – the financing of Sr. Ferran’s El Bulli Foundation which will eventually replace the restaurant, opening in 2014.

First frosts

November 29th, 2012 | Vineyards

The first frosts of winter are always warmly welcomed by us, but perhaps not so much by our vineyard guys. The reason? Well, this type of weather usually signals the start of the pruning season! Despite my my current excuse of having back problems, this is not a job that I really envy at any time of year. It’s a punishing chore, not only for the back, but also for the neck, the shoulders and the arms, made worse of course by our pergola system of vine training…. don’t forget this is all overhead work.

Perhaps on a crisp, dry, sunny day it’s not such a bad thing being out in the fresh air, as long as you’re wrapped up warm, but imagine how unpleasant it can be in a typical Galician winter with the rain beating down in your face (not to mention running up your sleeves as you reach up to prune).

I suppose the only good thing is that the first frost has come much earlier than it did last year – last winter we did not see any before January, and so the start of pruning was delayed until the very end of the year. At least by starting a bit earlier this winter it will take some of the pressure off, but it’s still a job that will take months to complete. Of course pruning is not just the physical act of cutting the vines, once this is done the shoots then have to be ‘trained’ and tied to the wires. Thank goodness we now have machines that doing the tying – remember that it was only a few short years ago when this task was done using short lengths of cord and every knot had to be tied by hand.

The first frosts of winter are always warmly welcomed by us, but perhaps not so much by our vineyard guys. The reason? Well, this type of weather usually signals the start of the pruning season! Despite my my current excuse of having back problems, this is not a job that I really envy at any time of year. It’s a punishing chore, not only for the back, but also for the neck, the shoulders and the arms, made worse of course by our pergola system of vine training…. don’t forget this is all overhead work.

Perhaps on a crisp, dry, sunny day it’s not such a bad thing being out in the fresh air, as long as you’re wrapped up warm, but imagine how unpleasant it can be in a typical Galician winter with the rain beating down in your face (not to mention running up your sleeves as you reach up to prune).

I suppose the only good thing is that the first frost has come much earlier than it did last year – last winter we did not see any before January, and so the start of pruning was delayed until the very end of the year. At least by starting a bit earlier this winter it will take some of the pressure off, but it’s still a job that will take months to complete. Of course pruning is not just the physical act of cutting the vines, once this is done the shoots then have to be ‘trained’ and tied to the wires. Thank goodness we now have machines that doing the tying – remember that it was only a few short years ago when this task was done using short lengths of cord and every knot had to be tied by hand.

Glass corks?

November 25th, 2012 | Bottles and bottling

In recent years we have invested quite a lot of time and effort in attempting to find the ‘perfect closure’ for our wine (not that there really is such a thing). Actually, to be more accurate, what I should say is that we have attempted to find the closure best suited to our wine, and for us this appears to be Nomacorc. Of course the latest fashion in sealing a bottle of wine is screw cap, and at least a few of the markets that we work with have asked about the possibility of introducing this. As yet we have not made the change, and this is largely for three reasons – Firstly, we do not believe that the Spanish market would accept it. Secondly, it would mean a significant financial investment at a time when many businesses are more concerned with belt-tightening. Finally, and most importantly, Nomacorc has worked well for us since 2002, and I would be very reluctant to make a change purely on the basis of ‘fashion’.

A few days ago we received an envelope through the post which upon examination looked like it might contain a handful of glass marbles (the type we used to play with as children). I confess that I did not imagine that it would contain samples of glass wine closures – a system called Vino-Lok. In truth I had seen this system before, but only on paper, I had never actually seen one of their glass stoppers.

Made in Czech Republic, I believe they are most widely used in the German market, including Lufthansa Airlines (this might be something to do with the German obsession for re-cycling). Of course with a glass closure there can be no problems with cork taint and bottles can be opened and resealed quite easily, but the downside is that this is quite an expensive product which, as with the screw cap, requires a significant modification of the bottling line.

A nice idea, but perhaps not for us.

In recent years we have invested quite a lot of time and effort in attempting to find the ‘perfect closure’ for our wine (not that there really is such a thing). Actually, to be more accurate, what I should say is that we have attempted to find the closure best suited to our wine, and for us this appears to be Nomacorc. Of course the latest fashion in sealing a bottle of wine is screw cap, and at least a few of the markets that we work with have asked about the possibility of introducing this. As yet we have not made the change, and this is largely for three reasons – Firstly, we do not believe that the Spanish market would accept it. Secondly, it would mean a significant financial investment at a time when many businesses are more concerned with belt-tightening. Finally, and most importantly, Nomacorc has worked well for us since 2002, and I would be very reluctant to make a change purely on the basis of ‘fashion’.

A few days ago we received an envelope through the post which upon examination looked like it might contain a handful of glass marbles (the type we used to play with as children). I confess that I did not imagine that it would contain samples of glass wine closures – a system called Vino-Lok. In truth I had seen this system before, but only on paper, I had never actually seen one of their glass stoppers.

Made in Czech Republic, I believe they are most widely used in the German market, including Lufthansa Airlines (this might be something to do with the German obsession for re-cycling). Of course with a glass closure there can be no problems with cork taint and bottles can be opened and resealed quite easily, but the downside is that this is quite an expensive product which, as with the screw cap, requires a significant modification of the bottling line.

A nice idea, but perhaps not for us.

Burgundy wine week

November 20th, 2012 | International News

For a very long period of my life I was lucky enough to spend at least two, if not three weeks of every year in the Burgundy area – so it’s a wine region that I know pretty well. The third week of November is perhaps one of the busiest of the year, although not necessarily for the wine makers themselves, but simply for the amount of activity in the area. Just under a week ago, on the third Thursday in November, we had the launch of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau – maybe not the world’s greatest wine, but certainly one of the most effective wine marketing campaigns ever created. Despite a decline in sales over recent years, the wine is still extensively exported, the largest market being Japan snapping up some 660,000 cases flown in on a fleet of jumbo jets!

Last weekend, on the third Sunday in November, the town of Beaune hosted the 152nd annual ‘Vente des Vins’, a charity auction held in aid of the Hospices de Beaune. Set up as a charitable hospital for the poor and needy in the 15th century, the building itself is now a museum and is a truly impressive example of the architecture of that era, well worth a visit.

The wine auction is a sale of ‘piece’ (barrels) of wine from many of the different appellations of the Cotes de Beaune and the Cotes de Nuits – 44 to be exact. The vineyards of the Hospices cover a total of 61 hectares donated over the years by the generous benefactors of the hospital. The proceeds of the wine sale now support a modern hospital in the town whilst the original Hôtel Dieu simply stands as a major tourist attraction for the region.

Since 2005 the auction has been administered by Christie’s and with interest from around the globe price paid are always well in excess of the real commercial market value – it’s more a matter of prestige. For example, this year the ‘Presidents Barrel’ sold for €270,000, which equates to nearly €1,000 per bottle – bought by a wealthy Ukrainian.

By the way, if you do visit Burgundy you must stay with my old friends Suzanne & Thierry, either at Le Montrachet or La Chouette, both situated in the village of Puligny  Montrachet and only a few km from Beaune. 

For a very long period of my life I was lucky enough to spend at least two, if not three weeks of every year in the Burgundy area – so it’s a wine region that I know pretty well. The third week of November is perhaps one of the busiest of the year, although not necessarily for the wine makers themselves, but simply for the amount of activity in the area. Just under a week ago, on the third Thursday in November, we had the launch of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau – maybe not the world’s greatest wine, but certainly one of the most effective wine marketing campaigns ever created. Despite a decline in sales over recent years, the wine is still extensively exported, the largest market being Japan snapping up some 660,000 cases flown in on a fleet of jumbo jets!

Last weekend, on the third Sunday in November, the town of Beaune hosted the 152nd annual ‘Vente des Vins’, a charity auction held in aid of the Hospices de Beaune. Set up as a charitable hospital for the poor and needy in the 15th century, the building itself is now a museum and is a truly impressive example of the architecture of that era, well worth a visit.

The wine auction is a sale of ‘piece’ (barrels) of wine from many of the different appellations of the Cotes de Beaune and the Cotes de Nuits – 44 to be exact. The vineyards of the Hospices cover a total of 61 hectares donated over the years by the generous benefactors of the hospital. The proceeds of the wine sale now support a modern hospital in the town whilst the original Hôtel Dieu simply stands as a major tourist attraction for the region.

Since 2005 the auction has been administered by Christie’s and with interest from around the globe price paid are always well in excess of the real commercial market value – it’s more a matter of prestige. For example, this year the ‘Presidents Barrel’ sold for €270,000, which equates to nearly €1,000 per bottle – bought by a wealthy Ukrainian.

By the way, if you do visit Burgundy you must stay with my old friends Suzanne & Thierry, either at Le Montrachet or La Chouette, both situated in the village of Puligny  Montrachet and only a few km from Beaune. 

Christmas gift ideas

November 17th, 2012 | Oddballs

After my last entry on our blog (which had a decidedly political bias), I thought that I’d better compensate by writing something a bit more light-hearted. I think it was last year that I posted an article about useless holiday presents (in 2011 it was a ‘grape holder’ for the Spanish celebration of New Year – don’t ask), so I thought I would follow this up with another wine related suggestion for 2012….. the wine bra!

In the States this product is actually known simply as the winerack, I guess because the word ‘rack’ has a double meaning over there (I will not elaborate but instead leave it to your imagination).

Perhaps the reasoning behind this invention is that these days there are an increasing number of concerts, functions and sports events that prohibit the consumption of alcohol, and these products are intended as a way of bypassing gate security. I confess that I already had seen an artificial ‘beer belly’ intended as a way for men to smuggle their beverages into a stadium, but this is the first I have seen targeted at women.

The idea is actually quite simple, you simply fill your cups with wine (this is not a deliberate pun), and then drink your Chateau du Monde* through a long plastic tube. To avoid any possible embarrassment the cups can be re-inflated with air once the liquid has been consumed. I can’t help but wonder if the two cups can be filled independently, perhaps one with white wine and the other with red? Of course this would then permit you to blend your own rosé! (Available from Amazon – honestly!)

*du Monde is a reference to my very favourite colloquial French expression: On seeing a particularly well-endowed French lady a man might be heard to say “il y a du monde au balcon” the literal translation of which is “there is a crowd on the balcony”. No further explanation required.

After my last entry on our blog (which had a decidedly political bias), I thought that I’d better compensate by writing something a bit more light-hearted. I think it was last year that I posted an article about useless holiday presents (in 2011 it was a ‘grape holder’ for the Spanish celebration of New Year – don’t ask), so I thought I would follow this up with another wine related suggestion for 2012….. the wine bra!

In the States this product is actually known simply as the winerack, I guess because the word ‘rack’ has a double meaning over there (I will not elaborate but instead leave it to your imagination).

Perhaps the reasoning behind this invention is that these days there are an increasing number of concerts, functions and sports events that prohibit the consumption of alcohol, and these products are intended as a way of bypassing gate security. I confess that I already had seen an artificial ‘beer belly’ intended as a way for men to smuggle their beverages into a stadium, but this is the first I have seen targeted at women.

The idea is actually quite simple, you simply fill your cups with wine (this is not a deliberate pun), and then drink your Chateau du Monde* through a long plastic tube. To avoid any possible embarrassment the cups can be re-inflated with air once the liquid has been consumed. I can’t help but wonder if the two cups can be filled independently, perhaps one with white wine and the other with red? Of course this would then permit you to blend your own rosé! (Available from Amazon – honestly!)

*du Monde is a reference to my very favourite colloquial French expression: On seeing a particularly well-endowed French lady a man might be heard to say “il y a du monde au balcon” the literal translation of which is “there is a crowd on the balcony”. No further explanation required.

Solidarity or intimidation?

November 14th, 2012 | Local News

Today’s photo is not the best quality that I have ever posted on our blog. The reason? It is a ‘covert’ photo taken very discreetly using my mobile phone – I shall explain why…..

I confess that I had not realised as I woke up this morning that Spain was in the grip of a national strike – a protest against the austerity measures being systematically introduced across the country. Without becoming too political I am convinced that these measures are being imposed out of necessity rather than by choice, as the Government struggles to balance its books and get its financial house in order. Of course Spain is not alone in this predicament, and so the strike was apparently organised not only as a national event, but as an international event, covering the whole of Europe.

I had to attend a hospital appointment in the local town of Vilagarcia (as a follow up to my spine injury) and upon entering the town we noticed that some shops were indeed closed, but that others were opening their doors for normal business. No doubt, in the midst of a deep recession, they had decided that bills still need to be paid and that they could not afford the loss of income. Being a little early for the appointment we decided to have a cup of coffee, and after a long search finally found a cafe/bar that had ignored the strike and opened its doors. On walking around we had also noticed small groups of four or five rather unsavoury looking characters hanging around on street corners – it soon became apparent who they were.

No sooner had we sat down with our coffee, when one of these groups entered. Perhaps not just a coincidence that they were rather large, slightly imposing looking men, who immediately confronted the poor woman in charge of the bar. After several minutes of discussion the woman pulled down her shutters, waited until we had finished our drinks, and then closed her bar. By the time we left the town, we could not see one business which had remained open – those which had braved the strike were now closed.

I’m sorry, but I had always believed that the whole point of a democracy is that we are free to make our own choices. I am not quite sure what gives these ‘pickets’ the right to impose their views upon the small business owners, obviously trying to make an honest living and keep their heads above water in difficult economic times.

Today’s photo is not the best quality that I have ever posted on our blog. The reason? It is a ‘covert’ photo taken very discreetly using my mobile phone – I shall explain why…..

I confess that I had not realised as I woke up this morning that Spain was in the grip of a national strike – a protest against the austerity measures being systematically introduced across the country. Without becoming too political I am convinced that these measures are being imposed out of necessity rather than by choice, as the Government struggles to balance its books and get its financial house in order. Of course Spain is not alone in this predicament, and so the strike was apparently organised not only as a national event, but as an international event, covering the whole of Europe.

I had to attend a hospital appointment in the local town of Vilagarcia (as a follow up to my spine injury) and upon entering the town we noticed that some shops were indeed closed, but that others were opening their doors for normal business. No doubt, in the midst of a deep recession, they had decided that bills still need to be paid and that they could not afford the loss of income. Being a little early for the appointment we decided to have a cup of coffee, and after a long search finally found a cafe/bar that had ignored the strike and opened its doors. On walking around we had also noticed small groups of four or five rather unsavoury looking characters hanging around on street corners – it soon became apparent who they were.

No sooner had we sat down with our coffee, when one of these groups entered. Perhaps not just a coincidence that they were rather large, slightly imposing looking men, who immediately confronted the poor woman in charge of the bar. After several minutes of discussion the woman pulled down her shutters, waited until we had finished our drinks, and then closed her bar. By the time we left the town, we could not see one business which had remained open – those which had braved the strike were now closed.

I’m sorry, but I had always believed that the whole point of a democracy is that we are free to make our own choices. I am not quite sure what gives these ‘pickets’ the right to impose their views upon the small business owners, obviously trying to make an honest living and keep their heads above water in difficult economic times.

Time to stock your cellar

November 9th, 2012 | International News

Yes, of course,Christmas is fast approaching, and this is the time or year that we all might normally stock up with wine – but this year there is another significant reason why you should consider buying a bit extra. Apparently there is a worldwide wine shortage (try saying that after two or three stiff drinks!). The predicted production over the last 12 months is said to be at it lowest for 37 years. There is a overall reduction of some 16 million hectolitres, with leading countries suffering some significant losses. France, for example, is down by some 19%, and whilst Italy has also fallen, their production for 2012 will now be slightly larger than that of their Gallic neighbours.  

This deficit in production is due to a veritable myriad of freak weather conditions – drought, heat, cold, wet, hail – pretty much everything that nature could throw at the poor beleaguered wine producer. The crop in Argentina is expected to be down by about 24%, whilst other notable losses have been experienced in Spain, New Zealand and Hungary. Perhaps the only country to come out on top was the USA, with increases in production of around 7%. Let’s just hope that not too much bottled stock was lost during Hurricane Sandy recently!

To quote some sources “it is likely that these shortages will put pressure on stocks, inevitably leading to prices increases”, but not at Castro Martin we are happy to report.

Yes, of course,Christmas is fast approaching, and this is the time or year that we all might normally stock up with wine – but this year there is another significant reason why you should consider buying a bit extra. Apparently there is a worldwide wine shortage (try saying that after two or three stiff drinks!). The predicted production over the last 12 months is said to be at it lowest for 37 years. There is a overall reduction of some 16 million hectolitres, with leading countries suffering some significant losses. France, for example, is down by some 19%, and whilst Italy has also fallen, their production for 2012 will now be slightly larger than that of their Gallic neighbours.  

This deficit in production is due to a veritable myriad of freak weather conditions – drought, heat, cold, wet, hail – pretty much everything that nature could throw at the poor beleaguered wine producer. The crop in Argentina is expected to be down by about 24%, whilst other notable losses have been experienced in Spain, New Zealand and Hungary. Perhaps the only country to come out on top was the USA, with increases in production of around 7%. Let’s just hope that not too much bottled stock was lost during Hurricane Sandy recently!

To quote some sources “it is likely that these shortages will put pressure on stocks, inevitably leading to prices increases”, but not at Castro Martin we are happy to report.

Big Hair Day

November 7th, 2012 | History

There is a serious side to today’s photo – taken in April 1983. It shows a delivery of  ‘abono’ (natural fertilizer) being made to one of our vineyards. We always explain to our customers that we only use the most Eco-friendly treatments on our soils, and this is proof (if it were needed) that we have been following this practice for many years. Of course the ox carts have been replaced by tractors these days, but very occasionally you might still see one on one our small country roads.

The thing which has changed is the fashion. Here you will see Angela modelling her Snoopy sweatshirt with a lovely pair of M.C.Hammer trousers! The true historians among you will know that these super baggy trousers were not actually made famous until the very end of the 1980’s, and so it could be that my wife was very much a trend setter at this time. It is also possible that the ‘big hair’ look was influenced by the TV series Charlie’s Angels, or perhaps the film Saturday Night Fever – quite frankly I’m too afraid to ask!

There is a serious side to today’s photo – taken in April 1983. It shows a delivery of  ‘abono’ (natural fertilizer) being made to one of our vineyards. We always explain to our customers that we only use the most Eco-friendly treatments on our soils, and this is proof (if it were needed) that we have been following this practice for many years. Of course the ox carts have been replaced by tractors these days, but very occasionally you might still see one on one our small country roads.

The thing which has changed is the fashion. Here you will see Angela modelling her Snoopy sweatshirt with a lovely pair of M.C.Hammer trousers! The true historians among you will know that these super baggy trousers were not actually made famous until the very end of the 1980’s, and so it could be that my wife was very much a trend setter at this time. It is also possible that the ‘big hair’ look was influenced by the TV series Charlie’s Angels, or perhaps the film Saturday Night Fever – quite frankly I’m too afraid to ask!

2012 – Official numbers

November 5th, 2012 | Harvest

Our local denomination office has finally released the official figures for the 2012 campaign. Taking into account the five sub-zones of Rias Baixas, and including all the permitted grape varieties of the region, a total of 17,567,877 kg was collected. They confirm that area under vine now exceeds 4,000 Ha, standing at 4,048 Ha. Apparently only 167 Bodegas participated in this years harvest, which, if I am not mistaken, means that some Bodegas did not make a 2012 vintage. Over the last year or so the number of Bodegas in our denomination has diminished slightly as some have sadly fallen by the wayside, closing their doors, but even so this number of 167 would appear to indicate that a few simply did not pick.

The total of Albariño grapes picked was 16,873,304 kg (96% of the region’s total), confirming that this number was well below that of 2011. The Consello also add that the grapes picked were in a very good toilet, sorry, sanitary state (I will have to stop using Google translate!)

Our local denomination office has finally released the official figures for the 2012 campaign. Taking into account the five sub-zones of Rias Baixas, and including all the permitted grape varieties of the region, a total of 17,567,877 kg was collected. They confirm that area under vine now exceeds 4,000 Ha, standing at 4,048 Ha. Apparently only 167 Bodegas participated in this years harvest, which, if I am not mistaken, means that some Bodegas did not make a 2012 vintage. Over the last year or so the number of Bodegas in our denomination has diminished slightly as some have sadly fallen by the wayside, closing their doors, but even so this number of 167 would appear to indicate that a few simply did not pick.

The total of Albariño grapes picked was 16,873,304 kg (96% of the region’s total), confirming that this number was well below that of 2011. The Consello also add that the grapes picked were in a very good toilet, sorry, sanitary state (I will have to stop using Google translate!)

All quiet for Halloween

October 31st, 2012 | Post Harvest

It’s nearly a month since the end of the harvest and the majority of fermentations are either finished or nearing an end. As far as we are concerned this means that life in the bodega will pretty much return to normal for at least another 10 or 11 months. I probably mention it every year, but one of the major differences that we notice will be the silence that falls over the bodega….. it truly is golden. 

During the harvest itself we have the constant drone of the presses, as they work for most of the day and into the night. Following this (once the fermentations get under way), we have the persistent humming of the extraction fans as they circulate fresh air throughout the bodega. Just in case you had forgotten, one of the most significant (and dangerous) by-products of the fermentation process is carbon dioxide, which falls quickly from the open tanks and settles at ground level. Without the fans constantly moving the air we would be overcome very quickly. Sometimes simply standing near an open tank can take your breath away as you inhale a little CO2 – it can be an unsettling experience when you take a breath and there is simply no oxygen to fill your lungs.

It is perhaps quite fitting that on All Hallow’s Eve and tomorrow, the Day of the Dead (1st November), that the Bodega will be eerily silent once more.

It’s nearly a month since the end of the harvest and the majority of fermentations are either finished or nearing an end. As far as we are concerned this means that life in the bodega will pretty much return to normal for at least another 10 or 11 months. I probably mention it every year, but one of the major differences that we notice will be the silence that falls over the bodega….. it truly is golden. 

During the harvest itself we have the constant drone of the presses, as they work for most of the day and into the night. Following this (once the fermentations get under way), we have the persistent humming of the extraction fans as they circulate fresh air throughout the bodega. Just in case you had forgotten, one of the most significant (and dangerous) by-products of the fermentation process is carbon dioxide, which falls quickly from the open tanks and settles at ground level. Without the fans constantly moving the air we would be overcome very quickly. Sometimes simply standing near an open tank can take your breath away as you inhale a little CO2 – it can be an unsettling experience when you take a breath and there is simply no oxygen to fill your lungs.

It is perhaps quite fitting that on All Hallow’s Eve and tomorrow, the Day of the Dead (1st November), that the Bodega will be eerily silent once more.

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