In the guide books of Galicia you might read that the region is more or less divided in two – the Rias Baixas (the lower rivers or estuaries) and the Rias Altas (the higher rivers or estuaries). The regulated wine producing area is located entirely in the Rias Baixas, and quite obviously, is why our denomination assumes that name. The D.O. is then sub-divided into zones, stretching from the Miño river in the south (that forms the border with Portugal), to the Ulla in the North, which is not too far from Santiago de Compostela.

Although the distances from north to south are not that great (we are in the northern zone of Salnés, and yet only about 60km north of the Portuguese border), there is still quite a lot of variation in the styles of wine produced. Generally speaking, the wines from the north are lean, vivacious with a fresh acidity, whereas the southern wines tend to be a bit fatter, softer and have a lower acidity.

The point of my story is however, probably more about microclimate. Our bodega is located close to the Ria de Arousa, near Cambados, whilst our home is just 12km further south on the Ria de Pontevedra (one ‘estuary’ lower down the coast). When I left our wine cellar yesterday at 4pm to drive home, the shade temperature in front of the building was 32°C (87°F), but as I started my journey I noticed that the thermometer in my car was dropping quite rapidly. By the time I had driven the 12km to my house the temperature had dropped to a refreshing 22°C (71°F) – a difference of 10°C (15°F). And the reason?…. A sea fog. During the day a dense curtain of mist had rolled slowly up the Ria de Pontevedra, shrouding the entire area in a veil of cooling cloud, completely preventing the sun from penetrating until the late afternoon. Not only did this fog create the dramatic difference in temperatures, but it is also the very same fog that occasionally hangs over our vineyards and is said to add a little saline character to our fruit….. You can really taste the sea!In the guide books of Galicia you might read that the region is more or less divided in two – the Rias Baixas (the lower rivers or estuaries) and the Rias Altas (the higher rivers or estuaries). The regulated wine producing area is located entirely in the Rias Baixas, and quite obviously, is why our denomination assumes that name. The D.O. is then sub-divided into zones, stretching from the Miño river in the south (that forms the border with Portugal), to the Ulla in the North, which is not too far from Santiago de Compostela.

Although the distances from north to south are not that great (we are in the northern zone of Salnés, and yet only about 60km north of the Portuguese border), there is still quite a lot of variation in the styles of wine produced. Generally speaking, the wines from the north are lean, vivacious with a fresh acidity, whereas the southern wines tend to be a bit fatter, softer and have a lower acidity.

The point of my story is however, probably more about microclimate. Our bodega is located close to the Ria de Arousa, near Cambados, whilst our home is just 12km further south on the Ria de Pontevedra (one ‘estuary’ lower down the coast). When I left our wine cellar yesterday at 4pm to drive home, the shade temperature in front of the building was 32°C (87°F), but as I started my journey I noticed that the thermometer in my car was dropping quite rapidly. By the time I had driven the 12km to my house the temperature had dropped to a refreshing 22°C (71°F) – a difference of 10°C (15°F). And the reason?…. A sea fog. During the day a dense curtain of mist had rolled slowly up the Ria de Pontevedra, shrouding the entire area in a veil of cooling cloud, completely preventing the sun from penetrating until the late afternoon. Not only did this fog create the dramatic difference in temperatures, but it is also the very same fog that occasionally hangs over our vineyards and is said to add a little saline character to our fruit….. You can really taste the sea!

OK, I know that I sometimes poke fun at the local fiestas, under the banner of “any excuse to celebrate”, but even I was a bit puzzled by the latest – the Ribadeo Festival of India. Perhaps all the ideas for fiestas have finally been used up – chicken, sardine, cocido and even the odd Oktoberfest, but India? As far as I’m aware many Spanish people don’t even like very spicy food! For example, there have been several Indian restaurants popping up locally in recent years, but then they have all disappeared, almost as quickly as they arrived.

I’m actually quite a big curry fan, and regularly make them for myself during the winter months. I say for myself, because although Angela loves the smell, she finds even my very ‘mild’ versions too hot to digest. I’m afraid I’m just the opposite, I make Madras and Vindaloo in my kitchen, albeit that neither of these two styles originate from India! Madras style is actually a restaurant invention (like the infamous tikka masala), and is really just a hotter version of a standard curry. Vindaloo is a dish of Portuguese origin, which over time was spiced up by the people of the ex-Portuguese colony of Goa. It’s name originates from the two main ingredients which were “vinho”, wine/wine vinegar, and “alhos”, garlic.

I doubt very much if the Spanish will be inventing curry dishes any time soon, although this latest Indian Festival could be a step in the right direction.OK, I know that I sometimes poke fun at the local fiestas, under the banner of “any excuse to celebrate”, but even I was a bit puzzled by the latest – the Ribadeo Festival of India. Perhaps all the ideas for fiestas have finally been used up – chicken, sardine, cocido and even the odd Oktoberfest, but India? As far as I’m aware many Spanish people don’t even like very spicy food! For example, there have been several Indian restaurants popping up locally in recent years, but then they have all disappeared, almost as quickly as they arrived.

I’m actually quite a big curry fan, and regularly make them for myself during the winter months. I say for myself, because although Angela loves the smell, she finds even my very ‘mild’ versions too hot to digest. I’m afraid I’m just the opposite, I make Madras and Vindaloo in my kitchen, albeit that neither of these two styles originate from India! Madras style is actually a restaurant invention (like the infamous tikka masala), and is really just a hotter version of a standard curry. Vindaloo is a dish of Portuguese origin, which over time was spiced up by the people of the ex-Portuguese colony of Goa. It’s name originates from the two main ingredients which were “vinho”, wine/wine vinegar, and “alhos”, garlic.

I doubt very much if the Spanish will be inventing curry dishes any time soon, although this latest Indian Festival could be a step in the right direction.

After a hard day on a tough mountain stage of the Tour what could be more refreshing than a nicely chilled glass of albariño (or perhaps, as in the case of today’s photo, the whole bottle). I have also seen old photos of cyclists in the saddle drawing on a cigarette as they speed through the countryside – professional cycling has certainly moved on a long way since then!

Every year the Vuelta de España flashes past our door, pretty much in the blink of an eye. I must confess that it has never occurred to me to set up a tasting table at the side of the road, but then thinking about it, trying to grab a wine glass at 60km per hour might just be a bit perilous!After a hard day on a tough mountain stage of the Tour what could be more refreshing than a nicely chilled glass of albariño (or perhaps, as in the case of today’s photo, the whole bottle). I have also seen old photos of cyclists in the saddle drawing on a cigarette as they speed through the countryside – professional cycling has certainly moved on a long way since then!

Every year the Vuelta de España flashes past our door, pretty much in the blink of an eye. I must confess that it has never occurred to me to set up a tasting table at the side of the road, but then thinking about it, trying to grab a wine glass at 60km per hour might just be a bit perilous!

The hot, dry weather continues here in Galicia, albeit that there is a nice fresh wind blowing today keeping the temperature down. Having said that it appears that the sun might have seriously impaired the thinking of some, leaving them to either wrestle wild horses, or perhaps run along the streets whilst being chased by bulls.

Spain is ,of course, the country of fiestas, but the annual calendar has now arrived at ‘silly season’ where man and beast come together by way of some rather odd celebrations. Here in Galicia we have the annual Rapa das Bestas – a ritual that dates back to the 15th Century. This entails wild horses being rounded up from the hillsides and guided into an enclosure in the centre of Sabucedo, simply to have their manes and tails trimmed. On face value quite an easy job, except that the only permitted way to control or subdue the horses is by using brute strength, meaning that the whole festival more or less resembles what can only be described as organised horse wrestling.

Meanwhile, over in Pamplona they have the annual Festival of San Fermin, which includes the daily ‘encierro’ – the simple matter of running through very crowded streets whilst being chased by a herd of bulls. Since 1925, some 15 people have been killed in the process, being either gored or trampled under the hooves of these heavy beasts – the most recent fatality was in 2009. Up to 300 people are injured every year.

I think I’ll stick to the albariño festival, which takes place at the beginning of next month. It gets pretty wild, but I don’t think the risk of injury is quite as high!The hot, dry weather continues here in Galicia, albeit that there is a nice fresh wind blowing today keeping the temperature down. Having said that it appears that the sun might have seriously impaired the thinking of some, leaving them to either wrestle wild horses, or perhaps run along the streets whilst being chased by bulls.

Spain is ,of course, the country of fiestas, but the annual calendar has now arrived at ‘silly season’ where man and beast come together by way of some rather odd celebrations. Here in Galicia we have the annual Rapa das Bestas – a ritual that dates back to the 15th Century. This entails wild horses being rounded up from the hillsides and guided into an enclosure in the centre of Sabucedo, simply to have their manes and tails trimmed. On face value quite an easy job, except that the only permitted way to control or subdue the horses is by using brute strength, meaning that the whole festival more or less resembles what can only be described as organised horse wrestling.

Meanwhile, over in Pamplona they have the annual Festival of San Fermin, which includes the daily ‘encierro’ – the simple matter of running through very crowded streets whilst being chased by a herd of bulls. Since 1925, some 15 people have been killed in the process, being either gored or trampled under the hooves of these heavy beasts – the most recent fatality was in 2009. Up to 300 people are injured every year.

I think I’ll stick to the albariño festival, which takes place at the beginning of next month. It gets pretty wild, but I don’t think the risk of injury is quite as high!

We have been pretty tied up at the bodega this week, with a group of visitors from the U.S. market. Our importers Frederick Wildman made their second annual visit to Castro Martin, bringing with them a selection of their regional distributors. The States of New York, California, North Carolina, Maryland, Texas and Tennessee were all represented.

After nearly two days with us I think it would be fair to say that they were well and truly indoctrinated into the ways of Rias Baixas, and more especially those of Castro Martin. Not only did they visit vineyards and the wine cellar, where we conducted various tastings, but they also had the opportunity to taste some of our local dishes, in both traditional and contemporary locations. They even visited the local fish market with one of Galicia’s top chefs, Xosé Cannas, to buy the ingredients and watch their lunch being prepared for them. I believe that this all helped to create a good impression of our region, and hopefully have created nearly a dozen new ambassadors for Castro Martin albariño.

At the end of their visit we did even contemplate holding a small test of what they had learnt, but decided that this might be stretching their newly found enthusiasm just a little too far!We have been pretty tied up at the bodega this week, with a group of visitors from the U.S. market. Our importers Frederick Wildman made their second annual visit to Castro Martin, bringing with them a selection of their regional distributors. The States of New York, California, North Carolina, Maryland, Texas and Tennessee were all represented.

After nearly two days with us I think it would be fair to say that they were well and truly indoctrinated into the ways of Rias Baixas, and more especially those of Castro Martin. Not only did they visit vineyards and the wine cellar, where we conducted various tastings, but they also had the opportunity to taste some of our local dishes, in both traditional and contemporary locations. They even visited the local fish market with one of Galicia’s top chefs, Xosé Cannas, to buy the ingredients and watch their lunch being prepared for them. I believe that this all helped to create a good impression of our region, and hopefully have created nearly a dozen new ambassadors for Castro Martin albariño.

At the end of their visit we did even contemplate holding a small test of what they had learnt, but decided that this might be stretching their newly found enthusiasm just a little too far!

Last week Bodegas Castro Martin welcomed it’s youngest ever visitor…. Our friends Caterina and Robert visited from Oporto (only an hour or two from our door), accompanied by their beautiful new daughter Carolina. She was remarkably well behaved and only made any complaint at meal times, otherwise she enjoyed the full bodega tour, although I should point out that she didn’t participate in any albariño tasting – milk tasting, yes, but no wine at this very tender age! Being born into the wine trade I have no doubt however, that it will only be a matter of time before wine appreciation becomes a big part of Carolina’s daily life.

In the meantime June continues to be extremely dry, I think that we have only experienced only one light shower since the beginning of the month, and possibly for as much as 5 or 6 weeks.Last week Bodegas Castro Martin welcomed it’s youngest ever visitor…. Our friends Caterina and Robert visited from Oporto (only an hour or two from our door), accompanied by their beautiful new daughter Carolina. She was remarkably well behaved and only made any complaint at meal times, otherwise she enjoyed the full bodega tour, although I should point out that she didn’t participate in any albariño tasting – milk tasting, yes, but no wine at this very tender age! Being born into the wine trade I have no doubt however, that it will only be a matter of time before wine appreciation becomes a big part of Carolina’s daily life.

In the meantime June continues to be extremely dry, I think that we have only experienced only one light shower since the beginning of the month, and possibly for as much as 5 or 6 weeks.

It has always been a great British pastime to complain about the weather, and despite the fact that I’ve just celebrated my 13th anniversary of moving to Galicia, the urge to have a good moan now and again, is still firmly rooted within my DNA. Despite being away at the start of the month I can still tell you that June has been pretty hot and dry, to date, culminating in a weekend of temperatures above the 30°C mark (touching 90°F). Unlike the States, however, Galicia is not tooled up with wall-to-wall air conditioning, and so you largely have no choice but to just grin and bear it, and the nights especially, can be very uncomfortable. Of course I have no right to complain, when we have just enjoyed the very same conditions during the flowering period in our vineyards. At the moment the heat and extended sunshine is actually not too bad for the vines, albeit that eventually we will need a bit of water just to keep things in balance.It has always been a great British pastime to complain about the weather, and despite the fact that I’ve just celebrated my 13th anniversary of moving to Galicia, the urge to have a good moan now and again, is still firmly rooted within my DNA. Despite being away at the start of the month I can still tell you that June has been pretty hot and dry, to date, culminating in a weekend of temperatures above the 30°C mark (touching 90°F). Unlike the States, however, Galicia is not tooled up with wall-to-wall air conditioning, and so you largely have no choice but to just grin and bear it, and the nights especially, can be very uncomfortable. Of course I have no right to complain, when we have just enjoyed the very same conditions during the flowering period in our vineyards. At the moment the heat and extended sunshine is actually not too bad for the vines, albeit that eventually we will need a bit of water just to keep things in balance.

After a couple of weeks out of the bodega, we have now embarked on an intense programme of ‘racking’ in our cellars. As I am sure I have explained before, every wine that we make undergoes and extended period of ageing ‘on the lees’ once the fermentation process has finished. The ageing period is always for a minimum of at least five or six months, but in all honesty, there is no fixed timescale attached to this, and sometimes it may be even longer. The way that we decide the optimum time to separate the finished wine from its ‘bed’ of lees, is quite simple, and is the way that we often make many of our wine making decisions in the bodega….. simply by tasting (and of course, our combined experience). If the wine is left for too long it can start to develop what is known as ‘reduction’, which, in layman’s terms, means that it can develop smelly forms of sulphur compounds. Whilst reduction at a low levels is not necessarily a bad thing, and is claimed can actually add complexity to the finished wine, it is certainly something that has to be monitored, and halted at the correct moment.

In the case of our 2014 wines, many of the tanks are being racked now, meaning that they have enjoyed almost 8 months of lees ageing. Once the racking programme is complete, it means that our 2014 wine is almost ready for sale – only the cold-stabilisation and a light filtration remains before bottling. Whilst a very little 2014 wine has already ‘leaked’ onto our domestic market, the vast majority of our stock will not start to hit the streets for perhaps another month or two – almost one year after the grapes were collected.After a couple of weeks out of the bodega, we have now embarked on an intense programme of ‘racking’ in our cellars. As I am sure I have explained before, every wine that we make undergoes and extended period of ageing ‘on the lees’ once the fermentation process has finished. The ageing period is always for a minimum of at least five or six months, but in all honesty, there is no fixed timescale attached to this, and sometimes it may be even longer. The way that we decide the optimum time to separate the finished wine from its ‘bed’ of lees, is quite simple, and is the way that we often make many of our wine making decisions in the bodega….. simply by tasting (and of course, our combined experience). If the wine is left for too long it can start to develop what is known as ‘reduction’, which, in layman’s terms, means that it can develop smelly forms of sulphur compounds. Whilst reduction at a low levels is not necessarily a bad thing, and is claimed can actually add complexity to the finished wine, it is certainly something that has to be monitored, and halted at the correct moment.

In the case of our 2014 wines, many of the tanks are being racked now, meaning that they have enjoyed almost 8 months of lees ageing. Once the racking programme is complete, it means that our 2014 wine is almost ready for sale – only the cold-stabilisation and a light filtration remains before bottling. Whilst a very little 2014 wine has already ‘leaked’ onto our domestic market, the vast majority of our stock will not start to hit the streets for perhaps another month or two – almost one year after the grapes were collected.

Nine flights and (almost) three continents in the last two weeks, hence our blog has been a bit quiet lately. The reason I say ‘almost’ three continents is that the second leg of recent travels included the Canary Islands, which whilst still technically Spanish, are only about 100 km off the coast of North Africa. I seem to have spent a disproportionate amount of my time sitting in airports, and stripping off to pass through security scanners. Oh, the joys of modern travel!

The first leg of my trip was to one of my favorite cities – New York, for a tasting of Rias Baixas wines. Prior to the actual tasting I spent a day or so pounding the streets, bottle in hand, with my good friend Matt, converting his Manhattan and Brooklyn customers to the ways of Castro Martin albariño. The downside was that the thermometer was reading about 31°C (nearly 90°F), and the atmosphere was fiercely oppressive. A very good way to shed a few pounds I can tell you. Suffice to say that our wines were very well received, both on the street, and at the official tasting.

After a frantic return trip from New York (including cancelled Trans Atlantic flight – but that’s another story), I arrived back in Galicia with just enough time to switch suitcases, and pick up my beach gear for the Canary Islands – literally a 12 hours turnaround at home, including sleep. It turns out that the beach gear was not such a good idea after all, as temperatures in Gran Canaria hovered around 20°C (68°F), completely overcast and a lovely chill wind from the Ocean. After a couple of days of business, the free time for a little R&R didn’t really work out too well, and the shorts stayed well and truly tucked away in my suitcase.

The final leg was a stopover in Madrid, for the University graduation of our daughter – a double degree in law and business – Angela, we are very proud of you! (Our daughter is also called Angela, just to keep our life simple). I should mention that the temperature in Madrid was between 35° and 37°C (95 – 98°F), perfect weather for attending a graduation dressed in a suit! It seems like somewhere along the way, I got my suitcases mixed up, and I really needed my shorts for New York and Madrid, not for the beach…..

Meanwhile, back at home in Galicia the weather was also baking hot, which was actually great news for our flowering this year. By the time of my return it was all done and dusted, which effectively would mean that we are looking at a mid-September harvest for 2015….. time will tell.Nine flights and (almost) three continents in the last two weeks, hence our blog has been a bit quiet lately. The reason I say ‘almost’ three continents is that the second leg of recent travels included the Canary Islands, which whilst still technically Spanish, are only about 100 km off the coast of North Africa. I seem to have spent a disproportionate amount of my time sitting in airports, and stripping off to pass through security scanners. Oh, the joys of modern travel!

The first leg of my trip was to one of my favorite cities – New York, for a tasting of Rias Baixas wines. Prior to the actual tasting I spent a day or so pounding the streets, bottle in hand, with my good friend Matt, converting his Manhattan and Brooklyn customers to the ways of Castro Martin albariño. The downside was that the thermometer was reading about 31°C (nearly 90°F), and the atmosphere was fiercely oppressive. A very good way to shed a few pounds I can tell you. Suffice to say that our wines were very well received, both on the street, and at the official tasting.

After a frantic return trip from New York (including cancelled Trans Atlantic flight – but that’s another story), I arrived back in Galicia with just enough time to switch suitcases, and pick up my beach gear for the Canary Islands – literally a 12 hours turnaround at home, including sleep. It turns out that the beach gear was not such a good idea after all, as temperatures in Gran Canaria hovered around 20°C (68°F), completely overcast and a lovely chill wind from the Ocean. After a couple of days of business, the free time for a little R&R didn’t really work out too well, and the shorts stayed well and truly tucked away in my suitcase.

The final leg was a stopover in Madrid, for the University graduation of our daughter – a double degree in law and business – Angela, we are very proud of you! (Our daughter is also called Angela, just to keep our life simple). I should mention that the temperature in Madrid was between 35° and 37°C (95 – 98°F), perfect weather for attending a graduation dressed in a suit! It seems like somewhere along the way, I got my suitcases mixed up, and I really needed my shorts for New York and Madrid, not for the beach…..

Meanwhile, back at home in Galicia the weather was also baking hot, which was actually great news for our flowering this year. By the time of my return it was all done and dusted, which effectively would mean that we are looking at a mid-September harvest for 2015….. time will tell.

Here in Galicia (and Spain) we have more than our fair share of food festivals – any excuse for celebrating food is embraced with great enthusiasm, from the more basic products, such as tomato, cheese, sausage, or chicken, through to some slightly more elaborate dishes such as our local cocido. Of course in Galicia many of the festivals are centered around fish and seafood, but generally speaking, if it can be cooked or eaten, then it will be celebrated!

Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, they also have festivals for the appreciation of food. For example, this month is National Burger Month, and the good news is that I will be in the States next week to sample one or two. Now, I know that this might make me sound like a heathen, so I have to qualify this by saying that I’m not talking about Burger King or McDonalds – I’m talking about real, honest to goodness, quality beef! I have to admit that I have a craving, and please allow me to explain why….. The ‘red’ meat that is most commonly found here is called ternera, and it is not beef as I know it, but actually a cross between beef and veal. When cooked it always looks slightly anemic, and not entirely appetising. Real red meat here is known as buey, but this is not always available, it is only carried by certain shops and restaurants, and believe me I have found every one of them!

Suffice to say that next week I might be on a high protein diet.Here in Galicia (and Spain) we have more than our fair share of food festivals – any excuse for celebrating food is embraced with great enthusiasm, from the more basic products, such as tomato, cheese, sausage, or chicken, through to some slightly more elaborate dishes such as our local cocido. Of course in Galicia many of the festivals are centered around fish and seafood, but generally speaking, if it can be cooked or eaten, then it will be celebrated!

Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, they also have festivals for the appreciation of food. For example, this month is National Burger Month, and the good news is that I will be in the States next week to sample one or two. Now, I know that this might make me sound like a heathen, so I have to qualify this by saying that I’m not talking about Burger King or McDonalds – I’m talking about real, honest to goodness, quality beef! I have to admit that I have a craving, and please allow me to explain why….. The ‘red’ meat that is most commonly found here is called ternera, and it is not beef as I know it, but actually a cross between beef and veal. When cooked it always looks slightly anemic, and not entirely appetising. Real red meat here is known as buey, but this is not always available, it is only carried by certain shops and restaurants, and believe me I have found every one of them!

Suffice to say that next week I might be on a high protein diet.