The sweet smell of sardine

June 24th, 2012 | Fiestas

 The festival of San Juan is the celebration of midsummer’s day here in Spain. It’s slightly complicated in that midsummer’s day does not actually fall on the day of the summer solstice, which was four days ago on 20th June. You would be forgiven for thinking that the longest day in the northern hemisphere might also be the same as midsummer’s day, but not so…. To complicate matters slightly further the celebrations are not actually held on the actual Festivo of San Juan (24th), but on the evening of the 23rd. Bonfires, fire and water are the main features of the night, and according to tradition, if people jump three times over a bonfire on San Juan’s night, they will be cleansed and purified, and their problems burned away. 

Midsummer tradition is especially strong in northern areas of the country, such as here in Galicia, where pagan beliefs are widespread. Towards midnight bonfires are lit and when relatively safe, people jump over the fire shouting “meigas fora” (witches off!). The traditional drink is Queimada, made from a mix of Galician aguardiente, sugar, coffee beans and pieces of fruit. This is then set alight to ward off evil spirits.

Here on the coast the traditional food at this celebration is grilled sardines. Not only is it impossible to get the smell of burnt fish out of your clothes and hair, but the odour of fish and smoke still hangs in the air the following day!

The festival of San Juan is the celebration of midsummer’s day here in Spain. It’s slightly complicated in that midsummer’s day does not actually fall on the day of the summer solstice, which was four days ago on 20th June. You would be forgiven for thinking that the longest day in the northern hemisphere might also be the same as midsummer’s day, but not so…. To complicate matters slightly further the celebrations are not actually held on the actual Festivo of San Juan (24th), but on the evening of the 23rd. Bonfires, fire and water are the main features of the night, and according to tradition, if people jump three times over a bonfire on San Juan’s night, they will be cleansed and purified, and their problems burned away. 

Midsummer tradition is especially strong in northern areas of the country, such as here in Galicia, where pagan beliefs are widespread. Towards midnight bonfires are lit and when relatively safe, people jump over the fire shouting “meigas fora” (witches off!). The traditional drink is Queimada, made from a mix of Galician aguardiente, sugar, coffee beans and pieces of fruit. This is then set alight to ward off evil spirits.

Here on the coast the traditional food at this celebration is grilled sardines. Not only is it impossible to get the smell of burnt fish out of your clothes and hair, but the odour of fish and smoke still hangs in the air the following day!

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