Archive for ‘Travel’

Return from New York

September 14th, 2014 | Tasting

New YorkYou may have noticed the lack of entries on this site over the last few days, and that’s simply because we’ve been travelling – a quick flit over to New York. With only days left to run before over 2014 harvest kicks off Angela and I made a flying visit to New York City for the annual tasting of our importer. It’s always a bit of a dilemma, deciding whether we should abandon the bodega at such a critical moment, but in reality during the last few days before picking there’s actually not a lot to do, except sit and wait (assuming that all the preparation work in the cellar has been done – cleaning, testing equipment, ordering supplies etc.)

If the truth is known I think that we also have an alternative motivation for wanting to go to the States…. to opportunity to visit a big, vibrant city with the added bonus of a bit of ‘retail therapy’. Suffice to say that we always leave Galicia with an extensive shopping list in hand, and have to add at least one extra day to our trip to accommodate our spending!

So, now that we’re back it’s time to refocus, and get on with the serious business of making wine. Until today the quality of fruit has been looking quite promising, but as we move into the final days, the forecasts are not looking too good – we can only hope that they’re wrong. 

New YorkYou may have noticed the lack of entries on this site over the last few days, and that’s simply because we’ve been travelling – a quick flit over to New York. With only days left to run before over 2014 harvest kicks off Angela and I made a flying visit to New York City for the annual tasting of our importer. It’s always a bit of a dilemma, deciding whether we should abandon the bodega at such a critical moment, but in reality during the last few days before picking there’s actually not a lot to do, except sit and wait (assuming that all the preparation work in the cellar has been done – cleaning, testing equipment, ordering supplies etc.)

If the truth is known I think that we also have an alternative motivation for wanting to go to the States…. to opportunity to visit a big, vibrant city with the added bonus of a bit of ‘retail therapy’. Suffice to say that we always leave Galicia with an extensive shopping list in hand, and have to add at least one extra day to our trip to accommodate our spending!

So, now that we’re back it’s time to refocus, and get on with the serious business of making wine. Until today the quality of fruit has been looking quite promising, but as we move into the final days, the forecasts are not looking too good – we can only hope that they’re wrong. 

Not quite so glamorous

April 9th, 2014 | Tasting

ZurichI exchanged a couple of e-mails with a customer yesterday, apologising for the delay in my reply, giving the explanation that Angela and I had been travelling on business during the previous week. “Somewhere nice, I hope”, came the reply. Well, in truth, the answer was yes, we had been somewhere nice – a couple of days for a presentation in Barcelona, followed quickly by a few days of tasting in Zurich. Of course, it’s quite natural to believe that travelling is a glamorous pastime, and it most certainly is when the journey is for leisure purposes, but when the aim is simply to stand behind a table (or in this case a barrel) pouring wine for two or three days, then not only do your legs start to ache, but also you don’t really get too much time to explore your surroundings anyway. The other slight downside was that these two trips also encroached upon two consecutive weekends, making our working week just that bit longer.

I know that I shouldn’t complain really – having the opportunity to travel is much better than have a regular ‘9 to 5’ sitting behind a desk all week, but I am simply saying that in the end it’s still work, albeit in a slightly different location.

Finally, I should add that we did have a really good time, thanks to the warm hospitality our good friends (and importers) in Switzerland. They certainly know how to look after their visitors, even if it was mainly for business purposes. Oh, and by the way, I think we did help to sell a bit of albariño too!

ZurichI exchanged a couple of e-mails with a customer yesterday, apologising for the delay in my reply, giving the explanation that Angela and I had been travelling on business during the previous week. “Somewhere nice, I hope”, came the reply. Well, in truth, the answer was yes, we had been somewhere nice – a couple of days for a presentation in Barcelona, followed quickly by a few days of tasting in Zurich. Of course, it’s quite natural to believe that travelling is a glamorous pastime, and it most certainly is when the journey is for leisure purposes, but when the aim is simply to stand behind a table (or in this case a barrel) pouring wine for two or three days, then not only do your legs start to ache, but also you don’t really get too much time to explore your surroundings anyway. The other slight downside was that these two trips also encroached upon two consecutive weekends, making our working week just that bit longer.

I know that I shouldn’t complain really – having the opportunity to travel is much better than have a regular ‘9 to 5’ sitting behind a desk all week, but I am simply saying that in the end it’s still work, albeit in a slightly different location.

Finally, I should add that we did have a really good time, thanks to the warm hospitality our good friends (and importers) in Switzerland. They certainly know how to look after their visitors, even if it was mainly for business purposes. Oh, and by the way, I think we did help to sell a bit of albariño too!

Big Apple tasting

September 15th, 2013 | Tasting

NYC3This year’s late harvest has enabled us both to make a trip that is often difficult, if not impossible…… a visit to New York for the annual tasting of our importer. Unfortunately this tasting is nearly always held at the beginning of September, meaning that it usually collides head on with the arrival of our grapes! Of course we could employ a sales director, an executive who could attend these events on our behalf, but this is just not the way we chose to work. Angela and I prefer to work ‘hands-on’ and travel to meet our friends and partners around the world in person. It goes without saying that, given the choice, our importers and their customers also prefer to meet those responsible for making Castro Martin face-to-face. The family behind the wine.

One of the other advantages of Angela making the journey to New York with me is that it negates the need to travel with a huge shopping list! The credit cards take a pounding as we both shop for the goods simply not available in our remote corner of Spain. It also gives me the opportunity to make my annual pilgrimage to the home of photography – the B&H store on 34th and 9th Ave – the world’s best photographic shop.

On the wine side of things, it is always very gratifying to witness the growth of albariño in the U.S. market, and the fact that many of those who taste already know our wine, or at the very least, know our denomination. That is why the United States is by far the biggest and most important market for our grape variety, and happily the numbers are still increasing….

 

NYC3This year’s late harvest has enabled us both to make a trip that is often difficult, if not impossible…… a visit to New York for the annual tasting of our importer. Unfortunately this tasting is nearly always held at the beginning of September, meaning that it usually collides head on with the arrival of our grapes! Of course we could employ a sales director, an executive who could attend these events on our behalf, but this is just not the way we chose to work. Angela and I prefer to work ‘hands-on’ and travel to meet our friends and partners around the world in person. It goes without saying that, given the choice, our importers and their customers also prefer to meet those responsible for making Castro Martin face-to-face. The family behind the wine.

One of the other advantages of Angela making the journey to New York with me is that it negates the need to travel with a huge shopping list! The credit cards take a pounding as we both shop for the goods simply not available in our remote corner of Spain. It also gives me the opportunity to make my annual pilgrimage to the home of photography – the B&H store on 34th and 9th Ave – the world’s best photographic shop.

On the wine side of things, it is always very gratifying to witness the growth of albariño in the U.S. market, and the fact that many of those who taste already know our wine, or at the very least, know our denomination. That is why the United States is by far the biggest and most important market for our grape variety, and happily the numbers are still increasing….

Where’s the summer?

June 17th, 2013 | Travel

FlossWe’ve just returned from the southern United States (hence the lack of posting on our blog for the least week or two), and what a difference….. When we boarded the plane in America the temperature was pushing 30°C (86°F), but by the time we landed back in Galicia the temperature had dropped to a chilly 15°C (59°F), even though it was midday when we arrived! Apparently the weather had remained cool and changeable in our region all the time that we were away, which was not good news for the flowering. Of course we are not sure what the long term effects might be as yet, but suffice to say that at this rate we could start picking our 2013 as late as October! As usual we find ourselves at the mercy of the weather Gods, who will ultimately determine the size and quality of our harvest….

One quick story from our trip – at France’s Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris I experienced one of the most ridiculous episodes of my life. We had just climbed off our overnight Transatlantic flight from Boston, and within 50 metres of leaving the plane, we were obliged to pass through security once again, in order to transfer to our flight to Vigo (despite the fact that we had clearly remained what is known as “airside”). We obediently succumbed to the usual routine – shoes off, jacket off, belt off, watch off, change out the the pocket, laptop out of the bag etc., etc., and then passed through the metal detector. Despite a green light, the ‘security official’, or should I say ‘jobsworth’, decided to give me an additional pat down (hand search). The only thing I had left in my pocket was a small plastic container of dental floss measuring about 4cm across (about 1½ inches).

The ‘official’ immediately seized my floss, stopped the entire queue of people behind me, went back and put this tiny PLASTIC container in it’s own, huge grey plastic tray, and then put it through the x-ray machine!!!! Unfortunately I was not able to take a photo to illustrate this entirely bizarre and ridiculous  incident as photography is not allowed (as is, apparently, dental floss).

FlossWe’ve just returned from the southern United States (hence the lack of posting on our blog for the least week or two), and what a difference….. When we boarded the plane in America the temperature was pushing 30°C (86°F), but by the time we landed back in Galicia the temperature had dropped to a chilly 15°C (59°F), even though it was midday when we arrived! Apparently the weather had remained cool and changeable in our region all the time that we were away, which was not good news for the flowering. Of course we are not sure what the long term effects might be as yet, but suffice to say that at this rate we could start picking our 2013 as late as October! As usual we find ourselves at the mercy of the weather Gods, who will ultimately determine the size and quality of our harvest….

One quick story from our trip – at France’s Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris I experienced one of the most ridiculous episodes of my life. We had just climbed off our overnight Transatlantic flight from Boston, and within 50 metres of leaving the plane, we were obliged to pass through security once again, in order to transfer to our flight to Vigo (despite the fact that we had clearly remained what is known as “airside”). We obediently succumbed to the usual routine – shoes off, jacket off, belt off, watch off, change out the the pocket, laptop out of the bag etc., etc., and then passed through the metal detector. Despite a green light, the ‘security official’, or should I say ‘jobsworth’, decided to give me an additional pat down (hand search). The only thing I had left in my pocket was a small plastic container of dental floss measuring about 4cm across (about 1½ inches).

The ‘official’ immediately seized my floss, stopped the entire queue of people behind me, went back and put this tiny PLASTIC container in it’s own, huge grey plastic tray, and then put it through the x-ray machine!!!! Unfortunately I was not able to take a photo to illustrate this entirely bizarre and ridiculous  incident as photography is not allowed (as is, apparently, dental floss).

Out of office

June 2nd, 2013 | Travel

Summer breakFor the next ten days Angela and I will be away, travelling abroad. I will be relying on my new smartphone to keep in touch, which should, in theory, be quite simple. Of course this new phone is untested outside Spain, and having only had it for a week or so, I am still very much learning exactly what it can do (everything but making a cup of tea, or so it would seem).

The long and short of the story is that it is unlikely that there will be any new postings on this blog during the coming days. Please excuse the break in service!

Summer breakFor the next ten days Angela and I will be away, travelling abroad. I will be relying on my new smartphone to keep in touch, which should, in theory, be quite simple. Of course this new phone is untested outside Spain, and having only had it for a week or so, I am still very much learning exactly what it can do (everything but making a cup of tea, or so it would seem).

The long and short of the story is that it is unlikely that there will be any new postings on this blog during the coming days. Please excuse the break in service!

A different pouring technique

May 25th, 2013 | Other

Sidra from AsturiasWe have just returned from a couple of days visiting a distributor in Asturias, our neighbouring Province just east of us, along the northern coast of Spain. With it’s lush green pastures it is known as the nation’s capital of beef and dairy produce which includes an impressive selection of regional cheeses. It is however, also famous for another product, perhaps a little more closely related to our own….. apple cider. I should start by saying that this is nothing to do with the ‘refined’ sparkling, sometimes sweet, cider that is consumed in other parts of the world. This natural cider is flat, opaque, acidic and nearly always completely dry. Sounds delicious!

The same as our own albariño, the production of cider in Asturias is strictly controlled by its very own Denomination of Origin, which dictates not only how it is produced, but also the list of approved apples that can be used. This natural cider is bottled in spring each year and usually varies between 4% and 6% alcohol.

The ‘Siderias’ or cider bars where this traditional beverage is served are instantly recognisable by the odour of apple juice that hits you the moment you step in through the door. Of course this could be something to do with the way it is ‘thrown’ into the glasses. Once you uncork a bottle of natural cider it has to be finished in one sitting as, like the apple itself, the juice will oxidise very quickly, but then the way it is served is quite unique.

Natural cider is flat and has to be aerated, this is done by ‘throwing’ the juice into the glass from a distance – in other words pouring it from a height of about one or two metres. This might appear to be just a bit of showmanship but it does actually carbonate the cider and adds to the bouquet. The downside of this process is that by pouring the liquid from such a distance when it hits the glass it simply splashes everywhere, and, as a result, the floors of the Siderias are always damp with a covering of  juice. Also, if there is any deposits in your glass, then you can either consume them or simply dump them out on the floor – some Siderias have special drains for this and that’s why a Sideria has such a strong odour when you first walk in.

Sidra from AsturiasWe have just returned from a couple of days visiting a distributor in Asturias, our neighbouring Province just east of us, along the northern coast of Spain. With it’s lush green pastures it is known as the nation’s capital of beef and dairy produce which includes an impressive selection of regional cheeses. It is however, also famous for another product, perhaps a little more closely related to our own….. apple cider. I should start by saying that this is nothing to do with the ‘refined’ sparkling, sometimes sweet, cider that is consumed in other parts of the world. This natural cider is flat, opaque, acidic and nearly always completely dry. Sounds delicious!

The same as our own albariño, the production of cider in Asturias is strictly controlled by its very own Denomination of Origin, which dictates not only how it is produced, but also the list of approved apples that can be used. This natural cider is bottled in spring each year and usually varies between 4% and 6% alcohol.

The ‘Siderias’ or cider bars where this traditional beverage is served are instantly recognisable by the odour of apple juice that hits you the moment you step in through the door. Of course this could be something to do with the way it is ‘thrown’ into the glasses. Once you uncork a bottle of natural cider it has to be finished in one sitting as, like the apple itself, the juice will oxidise very quickly, but then the way it is served is quite unique.

Natural cider is flat and has to be aerated, this is done by ‘throwing’ the juice into the glass from a distance – in other words pouring it from a height of about one or two metres. This might appear to be just a bit of showmanship but it does actually carbonate the cider and adds to the bouquet. The downside of this process is that by pouring the liquid from such a distance when it hits the glass it simply splashes everywhere, and, as a result, the floors of the Siderias are always damp with a covering of  juice. Also, if there is any deposits in your glass, then you can either consume them or simply dump them out on the floor – some Siderias have special drains for this and that’s why a sideria has such a strong odour when you first walk in.

A different pouring technique

May 25th, 2013 | Other

Sidra from AsturiasWe have just returned from a couple of days visiting a distributor in Asturias, our neighbouring Province just east of us, along the northern coast of Spain. With it’s lush green pastures it is known as the nation’s capital of beef and dairy produce which includes an impressive selection of regional cheeses. It is however, also famous for another product, perhaps a little more closely related to our own….. apple cider. I should start by saying that this is nothing to do with the ‘refined’ sparkling, sometimes sweet, cider that is consumed in other parts of the world. This natural cider is flat, opaque, acidic and nearly always completely dry. Sounds delicious!

The same as our own albariño, the production of cider in Asturias is strictly controlled by its very own Denomination of Origin, which dictates not only how it is produced, but also the list of approved apples that can be used. This natural cider is bottled in spring each year and usually varies between 4% and 6% alcohol.

The ‘Siderias’ or cider bars where this traditional beverage is served are instantly recognisable by the odour of apple juice that hits you the moment you step in through the door. Of course this could be something to do with the way it is ‘thrown’ into the glasses. Once you uncork a bottle of natural cider it has to be finished in one sitting as, like the apple itself, the juice will oxidise very quickly, but then the way it is served is quite unique.

Natural cider is flat and has to be aerated, this is done by ‘throwing’ the juice into the glass from a distance – in other words pouring it from a height of about one or two metres. This might appear to be just a bit of showmanship but it does actually carbonate the cider and adds to the bouquet. The downside of this process is that by pouring the liquid from such a distance when it hits the glass it simply splashes everywhere, and, as a result, the floors of the Siderias are always damp with a covering of  juice. Also, if there is any deposits in your glass, then you can either consume them or simply dump them out on the floor – some Siderias have special drains for this and that’s why a Sideria has such a strong odour when you first walk in.

Sidra from AsturiasWe have just returned from a couple of days visiting a distributor in Asturias, our neighbouring Province just east of us, along the northern coast of Spain. With it’s lush green pastures it is known as the nation’s capital of beef and dairy produce which includes an impressive selection of regional cheeses. It is however, also famous for another product, perhaps a little more closely related to our own….. apple cider. I should start by saying that this is nothing to do with the ‘refined’ sparkling, sometimes sweet, cider that is consumed in other parts of the world. This natural cider is flat, opaque, acidic and nearly always completely dry. Sounds delicious!

The same as our own albariño, the production of cider in Asturias is strictly controlled by its very own Denomination of Origin, which dictates not only how it is produced, but also the list of approved apples that can be used. This natural cider is bottled in spring each year and usually varies between 4% and 6% alcohol.

The ‘Siderias’ or cider bars where this traditional beverage is served are instantly recognisable by the odour of apple juice that hits you the moment you step in through the door. Of course this could be something to do with the way it is ‘thrown’ into the glasses. Once you uncork a bottle of natural cider it has to be finished in one sitting as, like the apple itself, the juice will oxidise very quickly, but then the way it is served is quite unique.

Natural cider is flat and has to be aerated, this is done by ‘throwing’ the juice into the glass from a distance – in other words pouring it from a height of about one or two metres. This might appear to be just a bit of showmanship but it does actually carbonate the cider and adds to the bouquet. The downside of this process is that by pouring the liquid from such a distance when it hits the glass it simply splashes everywhere, and, as a result, the floors of the Siderias are always damp with a covering of  juice. Also, if there is any deposits in your glass, then you can either consume them or simply dump them out on the floor – some Siderias have special drains for this and that’s why a sideria has such a strong odour when you first walk in.

Wine flavoured drink

February 10th, 2013 | Tasting

We have just got back from a short overseas trip – hence the fact that our blog has been silent for the last few days. On our outward flight we again discovered an alcohol-free “wine” on the in-flight menu, but this time the airline actually had it in stock. We ordered a small plastic bottle…. served with a small plastic glass.

Whilst it is actually advertised as wine, technically, as it has no alcohol, it is not actually wine but merely a wine flavoured soft drink. Of course, packing any drink into an 18cl screw top plastic bottle is never going to be the best way of preserving freshness, and this particular beverage only served to confirm that theory. The nose was a combination of oxidised, volatile acetones – hardly making it an attractive proposition for drinking. And the palate? Well, what can I say? Not really much better. To be brutally honest it simply tasted like flavoured water, the type that you might buy in litre bottles in a supermarket, flavoured with peach, or perhaps a hint of summer fruits.

The question must therefore be, why bother? Or at the very least, why advertise it as alcohol-free wine and not just as a flavoured soft drink? Sorry, I just don’t see the point and certainly can’t recommend it.

We have just got back from a short overseas trip – hence the fact that our blog has been silent for the last few days. On our outward flight we again discovered an alcohol-free “wine” on the in-flight menu, but this time the airline actually had it in stock. We ordered a small plastic bottle…. served with a small plastic glass.

Whilst it is actually advertised as wine, technically, as it has no alcohol, it is not actually wine but merely a wine flavoured soft drink. Of course, packing any drink into an 18cl screw top plastic bottle is never going to be the best way of preserving freshness, and this particular beverage only served to confirm that theory. The nose was a combination of oxidised, volatile acetones – hardly making it an attractive proposition for drinking. And the palate? Well, what can I say? Not really much better. To be brutally honest it simply tasted like flavoured water, the type that you might buy in litre bottles in a supermarket, flavoured with peach, or perhaps a hint of summer fruits.

The question must therefore be, why bother? Or at the very least, why advertise it as alcohol-free wine and not just as a flavoured soft drink? Sorry, I just don’t see the point and certainly can’t recommend it.

The castles and monasteries downsize

January 17th, 2013 | Business

If you’ve ever visited Galicia, or any part of Spain for that matter, the chances are that you might have stayed in a Parador Hotel. What you might already know is that the group consists of more than 90 converted castles, monasteries and palaces dotted around the country – many are quite breathtaking, imposing buildings. The thing that you might not have realised is that the Parador group is owned and run by the Spanish Government, it’s entire workforce therefore being public sector workers.

I remember when I first arrived in Spain 10 or 11 years ago that the Parador hotels were not only very good, but more importantly they were very reasonably priced, and represented fantastic value for money. Since then however, prices have gradually increased, and by Spanish standards they now fall more into the luxury hotel price bracket. This factor, combined with Spain’s current economic woes, have conspired to bring the group to it’s knees, losing €72 million (USD 95.5 million) in 2011, with occupancy falling from 70% in 2011 to 52% in 2012 – losses for 2012 are expected to increase €107m (USD 142 million). The truth is that Paradores have not actually made any profit for years.

Government proposals to close several hotels inevitably resulted in strike action, meaning that many hotels were only able to offer reduced services to their guests (perhaps not the best way to endear themselves to loyal customers). As a result the Government eventually backed down, and will now only close one hotel. They will however, close around 30 hotels during the low season, shedding a few hundred jobs along the way, and also close at least 15 restaurants on a permanent basis. I should add that my own experience of Parador restaurants has been very mixed, ranging from some very good meals with excellent service, to some very poor food with indifferent service. Food was never really one of their fortes. 

Apparently the Paradores, set up in 1926, were “not created purely to make money, but to showcase culturally rich, lesser visited parts of Spain”. It’s a real shame to say that they appear to have succeeded in at least one of their goals.

If you’ve ever visited Galicia, or any part of Spain for that matter, the chances are that you might have stayed in a Parador Hotel. What you might already know is that the group consists of more than 90 converted castles, monasteries and palaces dotted around the country – many are quite breathtaking, imposing buildings. The thing that you might not have realised is that the Parador group is owned and run by the Spanish Government, it’s entire workforce therefore being public sector workers.

I remember when I first arrived in Spain 10 or 11 years ago that the Parador hotels were not only very good, but more importantly they were very reasonably priced, and represented fantastic value for money. Since then however, prices have gradually increased, and by Spanish standards they now fall more into the luxury hotel price bracket. This factor, combined with Spain’s current economic woes, have conspired to bring the group to it’s knees, losing €72 million (USD 95.5 million) in 2011, with occupancy falling from 70% in 2011 to 52% in 2012 – losses for 2012 are expected to increase €107m (USD 142 million). The truth is that Paradores have not actually made any profit for years.

Government proposals to close several hotels inevitably resulted in strike action, meaning that many hotels were only able to offer reduced services to their guests (perhaps not the best way to endear themselves to loyal customers). As a result the Government eventually backed down, and will now only close one hotel. They will however, close around 30 hotels during the low season, shedding a few hundred jobs along the way, and also close at least 15 restaurants on a permanent basis. I should add that my own experience of Parador restaurants has been very mixed, ranging from some very good meals with excellent service, to some very poor food with indifferent service. Food was never really one of their fortes.

Apparently the Paradores, set up in 1926, were “not created purely to make money, but to showcase culturally rich, lesser visited parts of Spain”. It’s a real shame to say that they appear to have succeeded in at least one of their goals.

Burgundy wine week

November 20th, 2012 | International News

For a very long period of my life I was lucky enough to spend at least two, if not three weeks of every year in the Burgundy area – so it’s a wine region that I know pretty well. The third week of November is perhaps one of the busiest of the year, although not necessarily for the wine makers themselves, but simply for the amount of activity in the area. Just under a week ago, on the third Thursday in November, we had the launch of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau – maybe not the world’s greatest wine, but certainly one of the most effective wine marketing campaigns ever created. Despite a decline in sales over recent years, the wine is still extensively exported, the largest market being Japan snapping up some 660,000 cases flown in on a fleet of jumbo jets!

Last weekend, on the third Sunday in November, the town of Beaune hosted the 152nd annual ‘Vente des Vins’, a charity auction held in aid of the Hospices de Beaune. Set up as a charitable hospital for the poor and needy in the 15th century, the building itself is now a museum and is a truly impressive example of the architecture of that era, well worth a visit.

The wine auction is a sale of ‘piece’ (barrels) of wine from many of the different appellations of the Cotes de Beaune and the Cotes de Nuits – 44 to be exact. The vineyards of the Hospices cover a total of 61 hectares donated over the years by the generous benefactors of the hospital. The proceeds of the wine sale now support a modern hospital in the town whilst the original Hôtel Dieu simply stands as a major tourist attraction for the region.

Since 2005 the auction has been administered by Christie’s and with interest from around the globe price paid are always well in excess of the real commercial market value – it’s more a matter of prestige. For example, this year the ‘Presidents Barrel’ sold for €270,000, which equates to nearly €1,000 per bottle – bought by a wealthy Ukrainian.

By the way, if you do visit Burgundy you must stay with my old friends Suzanne & Thierry, either at Le Montrachet or La Chouette, both situated in the village of Puligny  Montrachet and only a few km from Beaune. 

For a very long period of my life I was lucky enough to spend at least two, if not three weeks of every year in the Burgundy area – so it’s a wine region that I know pretty well. The third week of November is perhaps one of the busiest of the year, although not necessarily for the wine makers themselves, but simply for the amount of activity in the area. Just under a week ago, on the third Thursday in November, we had the launch of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau – maybe not the world’s greatest wine, but certainly one of the most effective wine marketing campaigns ever created. Despite a decline in sales over recent years, the wine is still extensively exported, the largest market being Japan snapping up some 660,000 cases flown in on a fleet of jumbo jets!

Last weekend, on the third Sunday in November, the town of Beaune hosted the 152nd annual ‘Vente des Vins’, a charity auction held in aid of the Hospices de Beaune. Set up as a charitable hospital for the poor and needy in the 15th century, the building itself is now a museum and is a truly impressive example of the architecture of that era, well worth a visit.

The wine auction is a sale of ‘piece’ (barrels) of wine from many of the different appellations of the Cotes de Beaune and the Cotes de Nuits – 44 to be exact. The vineyards of the Hospices cover a total of 61 hectares donated over the years by the generous benefactors of the hospital. The proceeds of the wine sale now support a modern hospital in the town whilst the original Hôtel Dieu simply stands as a major tourist attraction for the region.

Since 2005 the auction has been administered by Christie’s and with interest from around the globe price paid are always well in excess of the real commercial market value – it’s more a matter of prestige. For example, this year the ‘Presidents Barrel’ sold for €270,000, which equates to nearly €1,000 per bottle – bought by a wealthy Ukrainian.

By the way, if you do visit Burgundy you must stay with my old friends Suzanne & Thierry, either at Le Montrachet or La Chouette, both situated in the village of Puligny  Montrachet and only a few km from Beaune. 

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