Taste the sea

August 19th, 2013 | Rias Baixas

Sea mistThe other day I was interviewed for a video (that may or may not end up attached to our website, depending on how it turns out), the significant point being that the person asking the questions appeared to be a little transfixed by the Altlantic Ocean and the effect that it had on our wines. It is of course true that the Atlantic does have a huge influence on our albariño and could possibly be the reason that this unique grape was planted in Galicia in the first place. Not only do particular varietals thrive in particular climates, but also the local diet often plays a large part in the style or type of wine that dominates in a given area. Being by the Ocean and having direct access to a huge amount of fresh fish and seafood has no doubt played its part over the centuries, and is probably one of the main reasons that our local wine history has evolved the way it did.

The style of most albariño is very distinctive, and many of the adjectives that are used to describe it are actually synonymous with the sea – we use terms such as fresh, zesty, crisp, clean and even salty, all words that could just as easily be used to describe the breeze from the Ocean. Indeed, the smell that we do experience from the sea rather depends on where you are, as different areas of coastline combined with a differing local climate can certainly change your perception.

So where does this distinct character come from? Well, quite naturally, a huge proportion comes from the grape itself, and whilst we have only one variety that dominates, there are of course many clones in existence, each of which might yield a slightly different taste (although the differences are very subtle and will not trouble most consumers). The rest comes from what the French would call ‘terroir’ – not just the soil, but all the different climatic nuances that surround a vineyard or wine growing area. In Galicia many of the soils are sandy, alluvial soils, deposited by the rivers (or Rias) along the coast. Obviously the soil itself will contain mineral deposits that could include varying amounts of sodium (salt), whilst the underlying base of granite in some areas, can increase the acidity and add to the ‘mineral’ character of the grape.

As far as the weather is concerned, being immediately adjacent to the ocean (as we are in the Val do Salnés sub-zone), has the effect of moderating our climate, keeping it cooler in summer, and more mild in winter. However, moving as little as 30 or 40km inland from the coast there can be a significant difference. Around our local town of Ourense for example, in summer it is quite common for the thermometer to hit 40°C (over 100°F) during the peak of summer. From a grape growing point of view this is far from ideal as the berries can rapidly lose their acidity.

Finally, we have the sea-mist – witnessed quite a lot in recent days. One minute we are bathed in hot sunshine, and then, within a matter of minutes we are plunged into a somewhat chilly blanket of a briny, saline sea-mist (or néboa in Galician), as it suddenly rolls in from the Ocean. This can be seen quite dramatically in today’s photos (click to enlarge), all taken within a period of 15-20 minutes. This sea-mist sometimes shrouds the vineyards even at the height of summer, and there is no doubt that this not only will influence the development of the fruit, but can also possibly, add just a touch of salty zest to the bunches.

Sea mistThe other day I was interviewed for a video (that may or may not end up attached to our website, depending on how it turns out), the significant point being that the person asking the questions appeared to be a little transfixed by the Altlantic Ocean and the effect that it had on our wines. It is of course true that the Atlantic does have a huge influence on our albariño and could possibly be the reason that this unique grape was planted in Galicia in the first place. Not only do particular varietals thrive in particular climates, but also the local diet often plays a large part in the style or type of wine that dominates in a given area. Being by the Ocean and having direct access to a huge amount of fresh fish and seafood has no doubt played its part over the centuries, and is probably one of the main reasons that our local wine history has evolved the way it did.

The style of most albariño is very distinctive, and many of the adjectives that are used to describe it are actually synonymous with the sea – we use terms such as fresh, zesty, crisp, clean and even salty, all words that could just as easily be used to describe the breeze from the Ocean. Indeed, the smell that we do experience from the sea rather depends on where you are, as different areas of coastline combined with a differing local climate can certainly change your perception.

So where does this distinct character come from? Well, quite naturally, a huge proportion comes from the grape itself, and whilst we have only one variety that dominates, there are of course many clones in existence, each of which might yield a slightly different taste (although the differences are very subtle and will not trouble most consumers). The rest comes from what the French would call ‘terroir’ – not just the soil, but all the different climatic nuances that surround a vineyard or wine growing area. In Galicia many of the soils are sandy, alluvial soils, deposited by the rivers (or Rias) along the coast. Obviously the soil itself will contain mineral deposits that could include varying amounts of sodium (salt), whilst the underlying base of granite in some areas, can increase the acidity and add to the ‘mineral’ character of the grape.

As far as the weather is concerned, being immediately adjacent to the ocean (as we are in the Val do Salnés sub-zone), has the effect of moderating our climate, keeping it cooler in summer, and more mild in winter. However, moving as little as 30 or 40km inland from the coast there can be a significant difference. Around our local town of Ourense for example, in summer it is quite common for the thermometer to hit 40°C (over 100°F) during the peak of summer. From a grape growing point of view this is far from ideal as the berries can rapidly lose their acidity.

Finally, we have the sea-mist – witnessed quite a lot in recent days. One minute we are bathed in hot sunshine, and then, within a matter of minutes we are plunged into a somewhat chilly blanket of a briny, saline sea-mist (or néboa in Galician), as it suddenly rolls in from the Ocean. This can be seen quite dramatically in today’s photos (click to enlarge), all taken within a period of 15-20 minutes. This sea-mist sometimes shrouds the vineyards even at the height of summer, and there is no doubt that this not only will influence the development of the fruit, but can also possibly, add just a touch of salty zest to the bunches.

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